. Food vendors in Edo .
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yatai 屋台 food stalls, pushcart stalls
hikiko 引き子 puller of the yatai
In modern times, we now have "food stall villages", yatai mura, where many are located together to share water supply and toilets.
. Eating out in Japan - Introduction .
Edo Yatai 江戸屋台 Food stalls in Edo
The most famous three ones were for Sushi, Tenpura and Soba buckwheat noodles.
Others sold food based on cooked rice, like 稲荷ずし Inarizushi, 茶飯 Chameshi rice cooked with green tea or 麦飯 Mugimeshi mixed with barley. Others sold all kinds of mixes soups.
Sweets were also sold in Yatai stalls.
There were about 7600 yatai in Edo, because there were so many single men coming here to work who needed food.
The yatai was carried around, but it had all that was needed. A lamp (andon) at one side, stove (kama) at the other.
. Sushi 寿司屋台 Sushi Yatai .
. Tenpura 天ぷら屋台 Tempura Yatai .
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Soba Yatai 蕎麦屋台 in Edo
They were out all evening and allowed to work the streets until morning. Carried on the shoulder pole, the two boxes contained all the cook needed.
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The nihachi soba 二八蕎麦 (80% buckwheat and 20% wheat) was mostly frequented.
In the beginning, buckwheat was served as
sobagaki 蕎麦掻 (そばがき) buckwheat dumplings
Later it was cut in noodle form, kirisoba 切り蕎麦
tenpura soba 天麩羅そば Soba with Tempura topping
one of the more expensive ones.
The prize of Soba was in doubles of four Mon, the smallest coin available in Edo.
Simple Soba were just 16 Mon (about 320 Yen now), Tempura Soba and other delicious toppings cost 32 Mon.
. shimonya 四文屋 "Four Mon Shop" .
- Introducing the money of the Edo period -
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fuurin soba 風鈴そば Furin "windbell Soba"
. Edo Fuurin 風鈴 Furin Wind Chimes from Edo .
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The first person to eat soba noodles in Edo was a monk from Nihombashi (Nihonbashi 日本橋)
The first person to eat soba noodles in Edo was a Nihombashi resident four hundred years ago.
The first time soba noodles appeared in Edo literature was when it was mentioned in the Jisho Diary (1614), which was written by the monk Jisho of the Sonshoin Temple in Kyoto. The entry of February 3rd shows that he ate buckwheat noodles with Sencho of Edo Nihombashi’s Tokoin Temple and Kuun of Oumi Sakamoto’s Yakujuin when they went to a bathhouse but could not enter because it was too crowded.
Tokoin Temple was in Nihombashi’s Shinnawacho (now Nihombashi Honcho 4-Chome). It was then transferred and is now in Nishiasakusa. Soba noodles are a dish that spread out from temples and shrines out to the general public.
It is said that “Shinanoya”, which opened in Nihombashi’s Setomoncho (now Nihombashi Muromachi) during the Kanbun period (1661 to 1673) was the first soba noodle shop in Edo.
The noodles that were served at Shinanoya were called “kendon” noodles. Kendon noodles were originally served as light finishing meals served during tea ceremonies at places such as temples. They are served as single orders on bamboo trays and enjoyed by dipping small portions in broth. The broth is “taremiso”, which is made with strained miso and water containing plenty of flavorings such as juice derived from daikon, citrus peel, perilla, dried plum, and dried seaweed.
The soba broth we know today was developed around the mid- to late Edo period (mid-seventeenth century to the late eighteenth century), when it became easy for common people to get their hands on dried bonito, which serves as the base. It is also around this time when soy sauce, sake, and sweet cooking rice wine became what they are today. ...
Shinanoya in Nihombashi’s Shinzaimokumachi (now Nihombashi Horidomecho) began serving “bukkake soba” (soba noodles covered with toppings) during the Genroku period (1688 – 1704). It was from around the Kansei period (1789 – 1801) a hundred years later when it started to be called “kake soba”.
- - - The Big Four of Edo Dining
- source : nihombashi-tokyo.com/history-
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source : edococo.exblog.jp
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A Long Story of the Long Soba
..... According to the book Soba－Edo no Shokubunnka (Buckwheat noodles―The Food Culture of the Edo Period) (2001) by Toshiya Kasai, the very origin of Soba found so far is pollen from a stratum of the beginning of the Jomon period. The direct origin of eating Soba on New Year’s Eve can be dated back to the Edo period. Soba was always eaten on special events in those days, and Toshi-koshi-soba, which means the New Year’s Eve Soba, used to be one of them. Today, Soba is not regarded as something to eat on special occasions, but still the tradition of Toshi-koshi-soba remains. Two different traditions, the tradition of eating Soba in December and the tradition of eating Soba at the end of each month have fused into the tradition of Toshi-koshi-soba.
..... Firstly, the tradition of eating Soba in December was popular among the people of the Edo period because it was the last chance of the year to taste Shin-soba, which is Soba made from fresh buckwheat flour.
..... Secondly, people tended to eat Soba at the end of each month in the Edo period. It was called Misoka-soba, since Misoka means ‘the last day of a month’. Soba was regarded as a frugal but special meal. They ate Misoka-soba to celebrate the fact that they have been able to live another month working hard with good health.
- source : komabatimes.wordpress.com - Tomoko Takahashi -
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sobachoko 蕎麦猪口 dipping pot with Daruma design
In Summer, Soba were served cold.
At the Edo food stalls, the dipping sauce in the small cup/pot was mostly
hishio, 醤油 strong soy sauce base.
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yotaka soba 夜鷹蕎麦 Soba for "night hawker" prostitutes
source : 77422158.at.webry.info - 蘭鋳郎の日常
Most ladies of the night did not even have sandals and had to make do with a hot pot of Soba to get warm between serving customers.
. yotaka 夜鷹 "nighthawks (night hawks)" cheap prostitutes .
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Here is Daruma san, eating his fill at Moriyama, Tokaido
守山 - ｢達磨大師｣
He has various trays with Soba like a mountain (yama 山) filled with many Soba (mori 盛り）to make a pun of the place name Moriyama.
Print by Utagawa 歌川国芳
Daruma Yobanashi だるま夜話 "Night Stories" and more prints
. Daruma eating Buckwheat noodles .
. soba 蕎麦 Legends about buckwheat .
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. soba 蕎麦 buckwheat - plant and food .
Polygonum fagopyrum - with kigo from various seasons
Buchweizen, Buchweizennudeln
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Oniazami no Seikichi / Oni-Azami Seikichi 鬼あざみ清吉 Oniazami Seikichi
The Bandit Seikichi (Demon Thistle) - the thief Oniazami - Gangster Oniazami
He was a famous thief and soon the model of some novels, prints and stories.
He was caught in 伊勢 Ise and brought back to Edo, where he died in 1805.
source : shokubun.la.coocan.jp/kirisoba
The print shows the famous thief Oniazami no Seikichi, hiding in a Soba Yatai.
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Sato Moyo Azami no Ironui - Izayoi Seishin
This Sewamono, commonly called "Izayoi seishin," was written by Kawatake Mokuami. It depicts the vicissitudes of Seishin, a priest at Gokurakuji temple, and the courtesan Izayoi.
Seishin was expelled from his temple for nyobon (Buddhist priest's illicit sexual relations with a woman). Izayoi realizes that she is pregnant with Seishin's child, and escapes from the kuruwa (licensed prostitution quarter). Izayoi and Seishin meet near the Inase river, and jump into the river in an attempt to commit double suicide.
However, unknown to each other, they both survive. Seishin has become an outlaw because he accidentally killed a man, and Izayoi has become the mistress kept by Hakuren, who rescued her from drowning. Later, Izayoi and Seishin meet again in the mountains of Hakone.
They became thieves calling themselves Oniazami no Seikichi and Osayo, and visit Hakuren to extort money from him.
At present,
the play is performed from the 'Inasegawa hyappongui' scene in which Izayoi and Seishin attempt to commit double suicide, to the 'Hyappongui kawashimo' scene in which the two of them, each not knowing that the other has survived, pass by each other.
A highlight of the 'Hyappongui kawashimo' scene is Seishin's "Shikashi mateyo" speech after he has committed the crime of murder, and the evil in his heart has awakened.
- source : ntj.jac.go.jp/unesco/kabuki/en -
- reference : oniazami seikichi -
Oniazami is also a story of Rakugo in Kansai. 上方落語の演目の一つ.
. jooshuu oniazami 上州鬼薊 thistle, Cirsium okamotoi .
and other types of Oniazami plants in Japan
. nusutto 盗人 / ぬすっと robbers / villains of Edo .
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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -
小屋掛けの蕎麦屋一軒雪間草
koya kake no sobaya ikken yukimagusa
just one stall
of a Soba vendor -
plants out of the snow
Tr. Gabi Greve
岡本菊絵 Matsumoto Kikue
. WKD : yukimagusa 雪間草 plants peeking out of a break in the snow .
- - kigo for early spring - -
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青空や戦で死んだ鬼あざみ
aosora ya ikusa de shinda oniazami
this blue sky -
Oniazami was killed
in the fight
駿河静男 Suruga Shizuo
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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .
. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .
. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .
. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .
. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .
. Legends and Tales from Japan 伝説 - Introduction .
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[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #yatai #foodstalls #sobabuckwheat #yotakasoba #oniazamiseikichi - - - -
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