Aoyanagi Restaurant

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. ryoorijaya 料理茶屋 Chaya tea stall serving food .
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Aoyanagi 青柳 Restaurant

A famous tea stall serving food.

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東両国の駒留橋 at Komatodomebashi, Eastern Ryogoku
広重 Hiroshige
- source : ndl.go.jp/landmarks


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Aoyanagi Ryogoku Haru-no-suke 青柳両国春之助
Toto ryuko sanjuroku kaiseki 東都流行三十六會席
(Thirty-Six Fashionable Restaurants in Edo)
Utagawa Kuniyoshi

Nakamura Fukusuke as Higuchi (Jirô) Kanemitsu disguised as the boatman Matsuemon


Thirty-six Fashionable Restaurants of the Eastern Capital
(Tôto ryûkô san-jû-rokkaiseki, 東都流行三十六會席 / 東都流行三十六会席 )
This series shows bust portraits of kabuki actors in character with restaurants in the background.
Dogu-ya Restaurant at Mukôjima Jubei 道具屋向島甚三 Jinzo
Suzaki Restaurant 洲嵜
Ôji Restaurant
Yagenaki Restaurant
Nanakusa no kwan Restaurant at Yushima 湯嶌
Yagenori Restaurant
Konpa-ro (Kinparo) (Golden Wave) Restaurant in Imado
Sobai Restaurant at Mukôjima 向島葱賣
Mukôjima Restaurant
Okina-an, meaning “cottage of the old man”
Sanya Restaurant 山谷
Ôdo Terasaki (or Ooto-kichi)
Yanagibashi Restaurant in Baisen

- source : kuniyoshiproject.com -


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- More famous restaurants in Edo

大七 Daishichi （向島）serving river fish and lending Yukata
平岩 Hiraiwa （向島）famous for its koi 鯉料理
万八 Manpachi（柳橋）visited by many bunjin 文人墨客 literati
田川屋Tagawaya （大音寺前）on the way home from Yoshiwara, with a bathing facility

植木屋 Uekiya（木母寺）Since the time of Tokugawa Iemitsu 掛茶屋
- also called 植半 Uehan (Uekiya Hanemon)
植木屋半兵衛 The cook was Uekiya Hanbei

- source : ndl.go.jp/landmarks

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Edo Culture: Daily Life and Diversions in Urban Japan, 1600-1868
Matsunosuke Nishiyama, Gerald Groemer



Other restaurants:
Massaki, Shikian, Kinparo, Musashiya, Ogura-An, Sakuragawa, Manpachi and Tagawa
Almost all these restaurants lay along the boat route of the Sumida River.
Yaozen and Hirasei
tsuukaku "men of taste"
- source : books.google.co.jp -

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Scene in a Yoshiwara Kitchen
In the kitchen you can see the preparation for fish and octopus.
Hishikawa Moronobu　菱川師宣　(1618 - 1694)

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. WKD : ao yanagi, aoyanagi 青柳 green willows .
- - kigo for late spring - -


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. ryoorijaya 料理茶屋 Chaya tea stall serving food .


. yaozen 八百善 Yaozen restaurant .


. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .

. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .


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Yaozen restaurant

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. Food in Edo 江戸の食卓 .
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yaozen 八百善 Yaozen restaurant


source : blog.goo.ne.jp/shiotetsu_2011

This famous restaurant opened in 1803 near Yoshiwara. The founder was
Yaoya Zenshiroo 八百屋善四郎 Yaoya Zenshiro
(1768 - 1839)

The restaurant was located in 江戸浅草山谷 Asakusa Sanya. It has started as a food delivery service (仕出屋 shidashiya) and Zenshiro was the 4th generation.
He turned the restaurant to a ryoori chaya 料理茶屋 "tea stall serving food" and soon into a high-class venture, much loved by the 俳諧 Haikai poets of its time.
Some of its famous customers were
酒井抱一 Sakai Hoitsu (1760-1828), 大田南畝 Ota Nanpo (1749-1823), 亀田鵬斎 Kameda Hosai (1752 - 1826) and 谷文晁 Tani Buncho (1763 - 1841).

Zenshiro had also published a book:
Edo Ryuukoo Ryooritsu　江戸流行料理通 Edo Ryuko Ryori-Tsu

The book contains the recipes of the seasonal dishes served at the restaurant.
He worked on it from 1822 to 1835, when it was finally all published.


CLICK for more photos !

The Kamaboko served at Yaozen was made from the following ingredients:
鰹味噌 bonito miso,、鯛 sea bream, 甘鯛 sweet sea bream、鱚 Kisu whiting, 鮭 salmon, 鰆 Sawara makerel, 鱈 codfish, 平目 flunder, 生貝 raw shells, 雲丹 Uni sea urchin, 烏賊 Ika cuttlefish
玉子黄身 yellow of an egg, 濃茶 thick (strong) tea.

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Of the first catch of the very expensive First Bonito, three fish were given to a famous restaurant Yaozen
for the price of 2 Ryo.

The price for a normal menu at Yaozen was
一人前が銀十文

. WKD : hatsugatsuo 初鰹 first bonito .

- quote
創業享保二年 江戸料理「八百善」



- - - - - Check out the homepage of the present Yaozen :
- source : yaozen.net

八百善を茶漬けにする
yaozen wa chozuke ni suru

Let's go to Yaozen to have some O-Chazuke.
(O-chazuke was a cheap dish of plain cold rice with a bit of flavor and warmed with pouring green tea over it.)

. chaya, -jaya 茶屋 tea shop, tea stall .

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source : ab.auone-net.jp/~hcstoria/shibutsu

Visitors at the second floor of Yaozen 八百善の二階座敷
in the middle is 亀田鵬斎 Kameda Hosai, on the left 大窪詩佛 Okubo Shibutsu (1767 - 1837), on the right 蜀山人 Shokusanjin (Ota Nanpo) and with the back to the onlooker, 谷文晁 Tani Buncho.
Painting by 鍬形恵斎 Kuwagata Keisai (北尾政美 Kitao Masayoshi) (1764 - 1824)


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Yaozen (Sanya)
Founded in 1717 in Asakusa Sanya and became one of the most famous restaurants in Edo, and became a high class salon where a number of writers and artists gathered. Playwright and author of comic poems Ota Nanpo was a regular patron of the restaurant and composed a poem that praised the restaurant as first-class.


歌川広重　Utagawa Hiroshige

In 1822 the cuisine text Edo Ryuko Ryoritu was published, which also became popular as a souvenir of Edo.
- source : ndl.go.jp/landmarks/e -

This is probably a meeting of a 狂句合 Kyoku poetry group. (Kyoku is similar to the present-day Senryu 川柳 humorous poems.

八百善と聞いて生姜ははづす也
yaozen to kiite shooga wa hazusu nari

shoga was a secret word for a ketchinboo けちん坊, a stingy person.

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Yaozen 八百善
After the great fire of Meireki 明暦の大火 in 1657, the shop opened anew at 新鳥越２丁目（山谷） Sanya.


扇地紙形枠内に　山谷八百善とあり、風景は隅田川。石浜には上客用の別荘がありました。
人物は柳橋金子屋の小竹。The lady is O-Take from Yanagibashi.
豊原国周 Toyohara Kunichika (1835 – 1900)

Around 1810 it started anew as a Shidashiya and from 1818 it built some 座敷 rooms to entertain the visitors.
守貞漫稿 Morisada Manko writes that in 1853 Yaozen has stopped to have guest in his house, and did only delivery service of food, but around 1850 begun anew to have guests.
栗山善四郎 Kuriyama Zenshiro, the fourth generation of Yaozen masters, begun inviting the literati of his time.
Even 葛飾北斎 Katsushika Hokusai frequented his restaurant.
- - - ryooritsuu, ryoori tsuu 料理通 a food expert, gourmet of our time.

- Here is the list of a 会席料理 Kaiseki Ryori menu
鱠 -- 紙塩鯛薄作り・じゅん菜巻き葉・織切りわさび、煎酒酢。
汁 -- 粒はつたけ・はぜすり流し。
椀盛り -- うずら摘入れ・笹がき牛蒡・丸しめじ。
焼物 -- 骨抜き鮎の魚田。
吸い物 -- 裂きまつたけ・絞り汁。
口取り -- 火取りのしあわび・桜の葉塩漬け。
香の物 -- 菜漬け・丸うり味噌漬け。
硯蓋七色 -- 鯛かまぼこ・あわびやわらか煮・篠さより・裏白かわたけ・黒くわいきんとん・ゆずうま煮・朝日防風。
- reference : kabuki-za.com/syoku -

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Comparison of Menus (Oryori Kondate Kurabe)
1815 (Bunka 12)
This is a ranking list covering serious restaurants within Edo. Promoters include
"Yaoya Zenshirō" also known as "Yaozen", an owner of the high-end restaurant that was loved by many educated men.



Since the beginning of the Bunka/Bunsei eras (1804 - 1830), many ranking lists that give an insight into the food culture in Edo in those days were published. This ranking is one of them, with Tagawa-ya, a famous catering restaurant in front of Daion-ji temple (in Ryūsen, Taitō ward) as the top-ranked restaurant in the east, and Kawaguchi, a Japanese style luxury restaurant in Hashiba (in Taitō ward) as the top in the west. Hashiba was an elegant place along the Sumida river with many vacation houses of wealthy merchants and luxury Japanese restaurants.
"Kayaba-chō Iseta" written in the center of referees refers to the restaurant Iseya Tahei in front of Kayaba-chō Yakushi-mae (Koto-bashi bridge in Sumida ward). This restaurant offered Tsukudani (food boiled down in soy sauce) to visitors who had come to worship at Sumiyoshi Shrine (in Tsukuda, Chūō ward) as something to go with young sake, and developed it into one of the local specialties in Edo.
- source : library.metro.tokyo.jp/Portals-


. Hashiba 橋場 Hashiba district, "place with a bridge" - Taito ward .


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source : ja.ukiyo-e.org/image

上野 八百善 Ueno Yaozen 
豊原国周 1878 - Toyohara Kunichika (1835 – 1900)
開化三十六會席 - Kaika sanjuroku kaiseki /
Thirty-six famous restaurants and views of civilization

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. Food in Edo 江戸の食卓 .

. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .


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Tenpura Tempura in Edo

[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]
. Food in Edo 　江戸の食卓 .
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tenpura てんぷら . 天婦羅 . 天麩羅 . 天ぷら Tenpura, Tempura
deep-fried battered food

The name "Tempura" was only used to describe fish Tempura.
agemono　揚げ物 deep fried food
shoojin age　精進揚げ　deep-fried vegetables

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"Agemono", or deep-fried foods, are of three basic types.
"Suage", in which foods are fried without a coating of flour or batter, is appropriate for freshwater fish, eggplant, green peppers and other vegetables whose color and shape can be utilized to good effect.
"Karaage", in which food is first dredged in flour or arrowroot starch, preserves the natural water content of the food and produces a crisp outer surface. In "tatsutaage", a variant of "karaage", pieces of chicken are marinated in a mixture of "sake", soy sauce and sugar, lightly covered with arrowroot starch and deep-fried.



"Tempura" belongs to a third type of "agemono", in which foods are coated with batter. For "agemono" a heavy pot with a wide bottom is used. Vegetable oil is poured into the pot to a depth twice the thickness of the foods to be fried and is then heated to a temperature of 160°to 180°C (320°to 360°F). To keep the oil at a constant temperature, it is important that the foods do not cover more than a third of the surface area of the oil.
- reference source : web-japan.org/museum/others/cuisine -

- quote -
Many ingredients are deep-fried. Mostly fish and seafood and vegetables.
Even the new leaves of greet tea are made into tempura during the season 新茶の天婦羅.
..... The recipe for tempura was introduced to Japan by Portuguese Jesuit missionaries particularly active in the city of Nagasaki also founded by the Portuguese, during the sixteenth century (1549).
Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder and first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan, reportedly loved tempura. Originally, tempura was a popular food eaten at street vendors called 'yatai'(屋台) since the Genroku era.


Tempura yatai (stall) - (Fukagawa Edo Museum)

Today, tempura is still a popular side dish at home, and is frequently eaten as a topping at soba stands.
..... In Japan, restaurants specializing in tempura are called tenpura-ya and range from inexpensive fast food chains to very expensive five-star restaurants. Many restaurants offer tempura as part of a set meal or a bento (lunch box), and it is also a popular ingredient in take-out or convenience store bento boxes. The ingredients and styles of cooking and serving tempura vary greatly through the country, with importance being placed on using fresh, seasonal ingredients.
©　More in the WIKIPEDIA !

frittierter Fisch, frittiertes Gemüse

WASHOKU : Tenpura Tempura dishes in our BLOG

basu tenpura バス天ぷら tempura from black bass
ブラックバス天ぷら付のうどん
From Lake Biwa

Maple leaves tempura (momiji tenpura)


kinpura きんぷら 【金麩羅】Kinpura, Kimpura (golden Tempura)
To make the dish look more "golden" in Edo they used egg yolk with the coating.


"Suwamachi Kimpura"　すわ町 金ぷら Kinpura from the Suwamachi district
"Kimpura" using luxurious egg made a clear departure from tempura sold at the stand and "Kimpuraya" in Suwamachi (present-day Komagata, Taitō ward) gained popularity as a restaurant serving "Kimpura". A painter, Yoshitsuya was a student who was good at drawing samurai and showed great performance as an ukiyo-e (wood block prints) artist in the end of the Edo period.
source : library.metro.tokyo.jp/portals...

Sometimes the coating is made with buckwheat flour. Oil from torreya nuts (kaya 榧(かや) is used for frying.
. . . CLICK here for Photos !


. yatai 屋台 food stalls, pushcart stalls .
The most famous three ones were for Sushi, Tenpura and Soba buckwheat noodles.

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江戸前天ぷら　Edo-mae tempura, made with local seafood from Tokyo Bay.
The most favorite were shrimp and tiger prawns, ika 烏賊 squid, anago 穴子 sea eel and megochi めごち eel,
kohada 小鰭 spotted shad and kisu 鱚 smelt-whiting, Sillago japonica.

The fried ingredients were picked up with a small bamboo stick, dipped in a sauce of soy sauce with grated radish (daikon) and enjoyed outside, from spring to autumn.

In Edo, only goma-abura　ごま油 sesame oil was used for Tempura. It kept longer tasty when re-heated.
Tempura stalls were only allowed to fry outside homes to prevent fires. Inside a home or restaurant it was forbidden to prepare Tempura.

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tenpuraya　天麩羅屋 vendor of tenpura in Edo
They were the beginning of small stalls selling "fast food" to be eaten while standing, for the fast-living workers of Edo.


source :　homepage3.nifty.com/shokubun

. Food vendors in Edo .

天麩羅の指をぎぼしへ引きなすり
tenpura no yubi o giboshi e hikinasuri

he wipes his fatty tempura fingers
on the giboshi decoration
of the bridge

This Senryu tells us about the carefree behaviour of the tempura cooks.
Tempura was made with some flavor on the food items, but not served with sauce as it is today.
Some sources say Tempura dipping sauce was introduced much later in the Meiji period.

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu in Edo .

. giboshi 擬宝珠 metal decoration of a railing .

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source : togetter.com/li

Tsukioka 月岡芳年「風俗三十二相 　むまさう 嘉永年間女郎之風俗」
A prostitute eating shrimp tempura

mumasao むまさう Umaso, this is so delicious !

. Tsukioka Yoshitoshi 月岡芳年 (1839 – June 9, 1892) .


The pose of the lady, turning to the side to wipe her face, is the same as in a favorite ukiyo-e by Utagawa Kuniyoshi, which was used to put on a handfan for some cooling in summer.


歌川国芳- 園中八撰花 Enchu Hassenka (Eight flowers of the garden)
- 松 Matsu (with pine in the background)

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Collection of Famous Edo Restaurants: Keiseigakubo in Hakusan
白山傾城ヶ窪

This is one piece of a collection of 30 printes of famous restaurants in Edo.
Keiseigakubo was located on Nakasendō road that ran from Nihonbashi through Sugamo
and through to the post station of Itabashijuku.
The Hakusan Daigongen shrine was close by.
The print shows travelers relaxing and women busy attending to customers at the restaurant.
A partially-papered screen door shows the words "meals served instantly"
and a noren doorway curtain is adorned with the name of the restaurant, Mankin.
An official bulletin board can be seen at the right,
and the whole image exudes the atmosphere of a thoroughfare bustling with travelers and their horses.
The comic haiku written in the fan-shaped frame shows that this restaurant was famous for a thick rolled egg dish.
The name of the restaurant, 万金 Mankin, also appears in a restaurant ranking
compiled in 1861 (Bunkyū 1), suggesting that this streetside establishment had a long and prosperous history.
source : Tokyo Metropolitan Database

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. Legends and Tales from Japan　伝説 - Introduction .

The kitsune 狐 Fox likes tempura and tempura oil . . .

................................................................................. Ibaraki 茨城県

In the 稲敷郡 Inashiki district at 江戸崎町 Edosaki village there are many fox legends, when people have to walk along the paths of the fields, were foxes and badgers play their tricks on the humans.
Sometimes the fox steals the tempura of someone returning from town and bringing it home as a present for the family 土産の天ぷら.


................................................................................. Miyazaki 宮崎県

In えびの市 Ebino town, in 尾八重野 Obeno, there was a lady fox called おせん狐 O-Sen , the King of all the regional foxes there.
She lived in the trenches dug during the war by the army of 西郷隆盛 Saigo Takamori.
When people walked along 浜川原 Hamawawabaru at night, there was a large branche of a pine tree in the middle of the road and they could not pass. This was an act of the Fox O-Sen. So they threw some Tempura at the branches, and they dissolved, leaving them to see a huge fox with a large tail on the road.


................................................................................. Nagano 長野県

Offerings for the ancestors on the family altar (butsudan 仏壇) for the O-Bon rituals contain many things, among them 野菜や天ぷら vegetables and tempura.
.
In the 上伊那郡 Kamiina district sometimes people get bewitched by a fox.
They behave quite wild and strange, walk on all four's an want only Tempura to eat.
To get rid of the spell they have to be kept in one room over night and hit with branches of a peach tree 桃の枝. That will bring them back to normal.
.
To get rid of the bewitchment of a fox, among other things, people say prayers and have to eat Tempura.
.
In the 東筑摩郡 Higashichikuma district were people kept silk worms 養蚕, they had to fry their tempura away from home by the river so as not to get the smell to the silk worms.
Sometimes at night a fox came, dipped his tail into the Tempura frying pan and made it un-usable. If the farmers forgot to take the bottle with sesame oil home, this would also be gone by next morning.


................................................................................. Niigata 新潟県

In 十日町市 Tokaichi town there was a fox called サンクロウギツネ Sankurogitsune, living between the hamlets of 蒲生集落 Gamo and 室野集落 Murono. If people walked there he would steal their 天ぷらや油揚 tempura and Aburaage Tofu.


................................................................................. Osaka 大阪府

In 堺市 Sakai town there was a fox
At the 城蔵稲荷 Inari Fox Shrine they tell this story:
An old priest once kept a White Fox with three legs. The brother of the priest was a hunter and the fox feared him. The fox shape-shifted into the old priest and pretended his brother had killed someone and wanted to have him punished. But the brother understood the trick, put some Tempura of a rat on the ground, tricked the White Fox to catch it and killed the fox.

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- reference : nichibun yokai database -

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Sugoroku for Introducing Popular Local Specialties of Edo, New Edition
(Shinpan Gofunai Ryūkō meibutsu Annnai Surogoku)

This is an illustrated sugoroku (a Japanese board game similar to western Snakes and Ladders), which starts from morning market in Nihonbashi and ends at Sannō festival. In the form of a sugoroku, it depicts famous specialties in the Edo period. Many food and restaurant names can be found.
In this picture sugoroku, you can find soba (buckwheat noodles), broiled eel, sushi, and the names of confectioners and restaurants including those serving tempura. There are various stories regarding the origins of tempura, but an essay called "Kiyūshōran", written in the latter part of Edo period, introduced that Yoshibei sold fried fresh fish at a stand in Nihonbashi a little before the Bunka period (1804-1817). Tempura was popular among the general public in the 19th century.
You can also find the words "Suwamachi Kimpura" and a yellow picture of tempura. "Kimpura" means tempura with coating of flour mixed with egg yolk (it also means tempura with coating of buckwheat flour). "Kimpura" using luxurious egg made a clear departure from tempura sold at the stand and "Kimpuraya" in Suwamachi (present-day Komagata, Taitō ward) gained popularity as a restaurant serving "Kimpura".
A painter, Yoshitsuya was a student who was good at drawing samurai and showed great performance as an ukiyo-e (wood block prints) artist in the end of the Edo period.
- Tokyo Metropolitan Library -
. sugoroku　 双六と伝説 Legends about the game Sugoroku .

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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -

天麩羅にかぎる魚や花曇
tenpura ni kagiru sakana ya hanagumori

this fish is best
as Tempura . . .
cherry blossom haze

綾部仁喜 Ayabe Jinki (1929 - 2015)

. WKD : "hanagumori" 花曇, .
- - kigo for late spring - -
A clouded sky during the Cherry blossom season, blossom haze, is "hanagumori", 花曇, only in this season used as a kigo for late spring and never used for other flowers in haze or clouds.

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歳晩や親身のような天婦羅蕎麦
長谷川かな女 Hasegawa Kanajo

天麩羅にからりと揚げて春告げ草 高澤良一
天麩羅の種のねずつぽ石鼎忌 石川桂郎
てんぷらの揚げの終りの新生姜 草間時彦
てんぷらやすでに鰭張る今年鯊 水原秋櫻子

たらの芽の天麩羅の棘食べにけり 長谷川公二
人獣の舌の天麩羅花ぐもり 磯貝碧蹄館
刀豆の天麩羅といふごわつけり 高澤良一
土用入り天麩羅箸の先焦げて 荒巷樹(野火)
活鯊に天麩羅油ぱちぱちと 長谷川櫂 蓬莱
竹の春吹かれとてとて天麩羅食ふ 攝津幸彦
草餅に草の天麩羅みどりの日 御子柴弘子
落葉降るさなか天麩羅匂ひけり 中嶋秀子
退屈も*たらの芽も天麩羅にせり 櫂未知子
餅あはひ天麩羅そばを皆たのむ 櫻井康敞
餅花の下を天麩羅そば通る 鈴木鷹夫 春の門
鱚天麩羅に笑ひ納めをいたしけり 辻桃子
稲の秋てんぷらの鍋鳴りはじむ 長谷川櫂
蓮枯れたりかくててんぷら蕎麦の味 久保田万太郎
長月のてんぷらあぶら古りにけり 辻桃子
黄菊白菊てんぷら揚がる市場の中 穴井太

- reference : haikureikudb -

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source : yoshi43.blog97.fc2.com

even the cats
enjoy their Tempura -
Spring in Edo

Gabi Greve, April 2016

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- Senryu -

てんぷらの店に筮（めどき）を立てて置き
tenpura no mise ni medoki o tatete oki

at the Tempura shop
they put up bamboo stick containers
for all to use

The bamboo sticks were put into a bamboo container and customers could take one out to eat their fill of Tempura.

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筮竹で判断させる天麩羅屋
seichiku de handan saseru tenpura ya

the Tempura cook
judges the food
by the bamboo stick

Since the fish was covered in batter and put in hot oil, the cook had no other choice to guess the situation by the babmoo stick still sticking out of the oil.

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小平次を竹鑓（たけやり）で突く天麩羅屋
koheiji o takeyari de tsuku tempuraya

at the Tempura shop
the spotted shad is pierced
by a bamboo spear

koheiji 小平次 is another word for kohada 小鰭 spotted shad

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- reference : wheatbaku.exblog.jp -

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source : www.6128080.com/sun/edo/ - Onodera Nenryou

To make good tempura, the heat of the oil has to be adjusted.
for fish, about 180 - 185℃, for vegetables only 160 - 180℃.

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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .

. Legends and Tales from Japan　伝説 - Introduction .


[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]
[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #tempura #edomaetempura #tenpura #foodinedo - - - -
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yatai food stalls

[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]
. Food vendors in Edo .
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yatai 屋台 food stalls, pushcart stalls
hikiko 引き子 puller of the yatai

In modern times, we now have "food stall villages", yatai mura, where many are located together to share water supply and toilets.

. Eating out in Japan - Introduction .

Edo Yatai 江戸屋台 Food stalls in Edo



The most famous three ones were for Sushi, Tenpura and Soba buckwheat noodles.
Others sold food based on cooked rice, like 稲荷ずし Inarizushi, 茶飯 Chameshi rice cooked with green tea or 麦飯 Mugimeshi mixed with barley. Others sold all kinds of mixes soups.
Sweets were also sold in Yatai stalls.
There were about 7600 yatai in Edo, because there were so many single men coming here to work who needed food.
The yatai was carried around, but it had all that was needed. A lamp (andon) at one side, stove (kama) at the other.

. Sushi 寿司屋台　Sushi Yatai .

. Tenpura　天ぷら屋台 Tempura Yatai .

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Soba Yatai　蕎麦屋台 in Edo
They were out all evening and allowed to work the streets until morning. Carried on the shoulder pole, the two boxes contained all the cook needed.


CLICK for more photos !

The nihachi soba 二八蕎麦 (80% buckwheat and 20% wheat) was mostly frequented.

In the beginning, buckwheat was served as
sobagaki 蕎麦掻 (そばがき) buckwheat dumplings
Later it was cut in noodle form, kirisoba 切り蕎麦

tenpura soba 天麩羅そば Soba with Tempura topping
one of the more expensive ones.

The prize of Soba was in doubles of four Mon, the smallest coin available in Edo.
Simple Soba were just 16 Mon (about 320 Yen now), Tempura Soba and other delicious toppings cost 32 Mon.



. shimonya 四文屋 "Four Mon Shop" .
- Introducing the money of the Edo period -

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fuurin soba 風鈴そば Furin "windbell Soba"




. Edo Fuurin 風鈴 Furin Wind Chimes from Edo .

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- quote -
The first person to eat soba noodles in Edo was a monk from Nihombashi (Nihonbashi 日本橋)
The first person to eat soba noodles in Edo was a Nihombashi resident four hundred years ago.

The first time soba noodles appeared in Edo literature was when it was mentioned in the Jisho Diary (1614), which was written by the monk Jisho of the Sonshoin Temple in Kyoto. The entry of February 3rd shows that he ate buckwheat noodles with Sencho of Edo Nihombashi’s Tokoin Temple and Kuun of Oumi Sakamoto’s Yakujuin when they went to a bathhouse but could not enter because it was too crowded.
Tokoin Temple was in Nihombashi’s Shinnawacho (now Nihombashi Honcho 4-Chome). It was then transferred and is now in Nishiasakusa. Soba noodles are a dish that spread out from temples and shrines out to the general public.

It is said that “Shinanoya”, which opened in Nihombashi’s Setomoncho (now Nihombashi Muromachi) during the Kanbun period (1661 to 1673) was the first soba noodle shop in Edo.
The noodles that were served at Shinanoya were called “kendon” noodles. Kendon noodles were originally served as light finishing meals served during tea ceremonies at places such as temples. They are served as single orders on bamboo trays and enjoyed by dipping small portions in broth. The broth is “taremiso”, which is made with strained miso and water containing plenty of flavorings such as juice derived from daikon, citrus peel, perilla, dried plum, and dried seaweed.

The soba broth we know today was developed around the mid- to late Edo period (mid-seventeenth century to the late eighteenth century), when it became easy for common people to get their hands on dried bonito, which serves as the base. It is also around this time when soy sauce, sake, and sweet cooking rice wine became what they are today. ...

Shinanoya in Nihombashi’s Shinzaimokumachi (now Nihombashi Horidomecho) began serving “bukkake soba” (soba noodles covered with toppings) during the Genroku period (1688 – 1704). It was from around the Kansei period (1789 – 1801) a hundred years later when it started to be called “kake soba”.
- - - The Big Four of Edo Dining
- source : nihombashi-tokyo.com/history-

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source : edococo.exblog.jp

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- quote -
A Long Story of the Long Soba
..... According to the book Soba－Edo no Shokubunnka (Buckwheat noodles―The Food Culture of the Edo Period) (2001) by Toshiya Kasai, the very origin of Soba found so far is pollen from a stratum of the beginning of the Jomon period. The direct origin of eating Soba on New Year’s Eve can be dated back to the Edo period. Soba was always eaten on special events in those days, and Toshi-koshi-soba, which means the New Year’s Eve Soba, used to be one of them. Today, Soba is not regarded as something to eat on special occasions, but still the tradition of Toshi-koshi-soba remains. Two different traditions, the tradition of eating Soba in December and the tradition of eating Soba at the end of each month have fused into the tradition of Toshi-koshi-soba.
..... Firstly, the tradition of eating Soba in December was popular among the people of the Edo period because it was the last chance of the year to taste Shin-soba, which is Soba made from fresh buckwheat flour.
..... Secondly, people tended to eat Soba at the end of each month in the Edo period. It was called Misoka-soba, since Misoka means ‘the last day of a month’. Soba was regarded as a frugal but special meal. They ate Misoka-soba to celebrate the fact that they have been able to live another month working hard with good health.
- source : komabatimes.wordpress.com - Tomoko Takahashi -

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sobachoko 蕎麦猪口　dipping pot with Daruma design



In Summer, Soba were served cold.
At the Edo food stalls, the dipping sauce in the small cup/pot was mostly
hishio, 醤油 strong soy sauce base.

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yotaka soba 夜鷹蕎麦 Soba for "night hawker" prostitutes


source : 77422158.at.webry.info - 蘭鋳郎の日常

Most ladies of the night did not even have sandals and had to make do with a hot pot of Soba to get warm between serving customers.

. yotaka 夜鷹 "nighthawks (night hawks)" cheap prostitutes .

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Here is Daruma san, eating his fill at Moriyama, Tokaido
守山 - ｢達磨大師｣
He has various trays with Soba like a mountain (yama 山) filled with many Soba (mori 盛り）to make a pun of the place name Moriyama.


Print by Utagawa 歌川国芳


Daruma Yobanashi だるま夜話 "Night Stories" and more prints
. Daruma eating Buckwheat noodles .


. soba 蕎麦 Legends about buckwheat .

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. soba 蕎麦 buckwheat - plant and food .
Polygonum fagopyrum - with kigo from various seasons

Buchweizen, Buchweizennudeln

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Oniazami no Seikichi / Oni-Azami Seikichi 鬼あざみ清吉 Oniazami Seikichi
The Bandit Seikichi (Demon Thistle) - the thief Oniazami - Gangster Oniazami
He was a famous thief and soon the model of some novels, prints and stories.
He was caught in 伊勢 Ise and brought back to Edo, where he died in 1805.


source : shokubun.la.coocan.jp/kirisoba

The print shows the famous thief Oniazami no Seikichi, hiding in a Soba Yatai.

- quote -
Sato Moyo Azami no Ironui - Izayoi Seishin
This Sewamono, commonly called "Izayoi seishin," was written by Kawatake Mokuami. It depicts the vicissitudes of Seishin, a priest at Gokurakuji temple, and the courtesan Izayoi.
Seishin was expelled from his temple for nyobon (Buddhist priest's illicit sexual relations with a woman). Izayoi realizes that she is pregnant with Seishin's child, and escapes from the kuruwa (licensed prostitution quarter). Izayoi and Seishin meet near the Inase river, and jump into the river in an attempt to commit double suicide.
However, unknown to each other, they both survive. Seishin has become an outlaw because he accidentally killed a man, and Izayoi has become the mistress kept by Hakuren, who rescued her from drowning. Later, Izayoi and Seishin meet again in the mountains of Hakone.
They became thieves calling themselves Oniazami no Seikichi and Osayo, and visit Hakuren to extort money from him.
At present,
the play is performed from the 'Inasegawa hyappongui' scene in which Izayoi and Seishin attempt to commit double suicide, to the 'Hyappongui kawashimo' scene in which the two of them, each not knowing that the other has survived, pass by each other.
A highlight of the 'Hyappongui kawashimo' scene is Seishin's "Shikashi mateyo" speech after he has committed the crime of murder, and the evil in his heart has awakened.
- source : ntj.jac.go.jp/unesco/kabuki/en -



- reference : oniazami seikichi -

Oniazami is also a story of Rakugo in Kansai. 上方落語の演目の一つ.

. jooshuu oniazami 上州鬼薊 thistle, Cirsium okamotoi .
and other types of Oniazami plants in Japan


. nusutto 盗人 / ぬすっと robbers / villains of Edo .

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小屋掛けの蕎麦屋一軒雪間草
koya kake no sobaya ikken yukimagusa

just one stall
of a Soba vendor -
plants out of the snow
Tr. Gabi Greve

岡本菊絵 Matsumoto Kikue

. WKD : yukimagusa 雪間草 plants peeking out of a break in the snow .
- - kigo for early spring - -

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青空や戦で死んだ鬼あざみ
aosora ya ikusa de shinda oniazami

this blue sky -
Oniazami was killed
in the fight

駿河静男　Suruga Shizuo

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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .

. Legends and Tales from Japan　伝説 - Introduction .


[ . BACK to DARUMA　MUSEUM　TOP . ]
[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #yatai #foodstalls #sobabuckwheat #yotakasoba #oniazamiseikichi - - - -
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Abekawa

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .
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Abekawa, River Abe-Kawa 安倍川 / 阿部川

- quote
The Abe River (安倍川 Abe-kawa, also Abe-gawa)
is a river in Shizuoka Prefecture of central Japan. It is 53.3 kilometres (33.1 mi) long and has a watershed of 567 square kilometres (219 sq mi).

The river rises from Akaishi Mountains which stretch over the border between Yamanashi and Shizuoka Prefectures, and flows into Suruga Bay in the Pacific Ocean). It is known for its clear stream and forms part of the main water supply for Shizuoka city.



There are many hot springs at the river head, which is also known for its numerous landslides and for the Abe Great Falls, one of Japan's Top 100 Waterfalls. Unlike the nearby Tenryū River and Ōi River are no dams on the Abe River.

Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu carried out extensive construction and formed the present route of the lower course of the river. Abekawamochi (安倍川餅, a mochi rice cake dusted with kinako (soybean flour) has been a local speciality of this area since at least the Edo period.
- source : wikipedia

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Abe Kaido 安倍街道
From Shizuoka city along 安倍川 the river Abekawa to 井川湖 the lake Ikawako.



yuurei 幽霊 ghost
At the crossing of the Abe Kaido along the 薩摩土手 Satsumadote river bank there are ghosts walking around.
People say it is a very scary place.

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Hiroshige, Crossing the Abekawa river
広重「府中宿」この安倍川の渡し
Fuchuu juku 府中宿（ふちゅう） Fuchu Station at the Tokaido Road

江尻より２里２７町。いまの静岡市で、安倍川のほとりにある。ここには、徳川家康が諸侯につくらせた駿府城があり、かれは晩年をここに送ったのである。図は安倍川の渡渉を描いたもので２人の女の輦台渡のありさまをつたえる。輦台渡とは各種渡渉法の一つで２種の方法があり，高貴の人は輿に乗ったままわたし、他は梯子形のものに乗ってわたる。これは武家の娘とその供の女であろうか。『広重　東海道五十三次』
- source : おやじのつぶやき -


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. Asakusa 浅草 district in Edo .


source :　chuukyuu.info/who/edo
浅草下谷の阿部川町と称念寺

Asakusa Abekawachoo　阿部川町 Abekawa machi
To the South of Asakusa Hongan-Ji 本願寺.
Since 1636 a lot of government workers called "o kobito shuu"　(okobito) 御小人衆 lived here, working for Metsuke office. At that time, the district did not have a special name yet. Since having no name was confusing as Edo grew, in the year 1696 it came under the directive of 細井九左衛門　Hosoi Kuzaemon, who gave it the name.
The leader of the Okobito, 川村太四郎　Kawamura Taishiro, had come from the Abekawa region of Shizuoka.
The ABE spelling changed from 安倍　to 阿部.

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Abekawacho in Sunpu 阿部川町(あべかわちょう) - Shizuoka
駿府城下町の伝承



There used to be five sub-districts
昔は上町・中町・旅籠町・新町・揚屋町

-. . . . . To study history about Tokugawa Ieyasu . . .
- source : visit-shizuoka.com -

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- quote -
Magozoo Shrine　孫三稲荷神社 Magozo Inari Jinja
3 chome 19-7, Moto-asakusa
The record "Gofunai Biko" of the Edo era says this neighbourhood was called Abekawacho because a village shrine called "Magozo Shrine" at Abekawa in Shizuoka prefecture was moved to here.



A legend has been handed down in this district that at the end of the Sixteenth century, Tokugawa Ieyasu had a spiritual experience while traversing the river Abe allowing a man called Magozo to hold the bit of his horse. Later this man was found to be an incarnation representing Magozo Shrine located near the river Abekawa.

Another record "Machikata-kakiage" shows this shrine was attended by people living in the district and there was an enshrined wooden statue of about 10 cm in size.
The location of the original shrine in the Shizuoka prefecture is not known and all the records and building of this shrine here were completely lost due to the Great Kanto Earthquake and Tokyo air raids during World War II.
The present shrine was constructed by the neighborhood association and a festival is performed here annually in March.
- source : taito-culture.jp -

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. Abekawa Mochi 安倍川餅 / 安倍川もち rice cakes from Abekawa river .
with kinako soy bean flour



Once eaten by Tokugawa Ieyasu, because the local producers told him the kinako flower was really gold powder.
kinako - kin na ko 安倍川の金な粉餅 pun with Gold Powder

Some are covered with with kinako soy flour and a load of white sugar.
They soon became a speciality at Fuchu Station along the Tokaido Road.

Tokugawa Yoshimune 徳川吉宗 also liked them a lot.

Now they are made as favorite souvenirs at many stores, the most famous ones are along the Eastern side of the 安倍川橋　Abakawa bridge 葵区弥勒二丁目 Aoi Ward, Miroku.




府中 Fuchu in Shizuoka - 広重Hiroshige


In the detail you can see the traveler enjoying his mochi.
And in the shop, a young woman is pounding the mochi rice.


. Tokugawa Ieyasu 徳川家康 ( 1543 - 1616) .


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Daruma Stone from River Abekawa, Shizuoka
安倍川鉄丸石　... ダルマ石



. Suiseki 水石 Stones for Appreciation .

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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -



CLICK for more photos !

. Abe-kawa River Fireworks Festival 　安倍川花火大会 .
last Saturday in July
- - kigo for late Summer - -

An established summer tradition, Shizuoka City’s largest fireworks festival boasts 15,000 fireworks and tens of ground based “exhibition” fireworks which spectacularly color the summer night sky. In addition to city residents, the celebration attracts tourists from Shizuoka and other prefectures.
- source : shizuoka-guide.com -

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. densetsu 伝説　Japanese Legends - Introduction .

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kitsunemochi kudaya 狐持，クダヤ being posessed by a fox

kuda is a monster that likes to posess people.
It lived along the river valley of Kamanashigawa 釜無川、Fujigawa 富士川 and Abekawa 安倍川.
From the end of the Edo period toward Meiji there were many tales about a fox posessing people (kitsunemochi), and the people who got posessed were driven out of the villages.
Around 1667 a creature called "Fox with seven colors" 七色狐 showed up in the village, went to the great Fushimi shrine in Kyoto 京都伏見 to get an amulet and then read the Hanya Shinkyo sutra 大般若経 in the village temple to expel the fox.


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tanuki 狸 Badger legends

小河内のある家に富士宮から和尚が来た。飯の時に人を寄り付けない。安倍川の渡しで一もうずの犬に食い殺されたとき、正体を現して狸になった。その和尚が筆を口にくわえて書いたという、絵とも字ともつかぬものが残っている。

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名主の家に鎌倉建長寺の僧が来た。やたらに犬を嫌って遠ざけた。飯の時に人を寄り付けない。安倍川で犬に追いかけられたとき、正体を現して狸になった。
- or
名主の作之丞の家に鎌倉建長寺の大僧正が来た。やたらに犬を嫌って遠ざけ、飯の時に人を寄り付けない。安倍川でしっぺい太郎という犬に食い殺されたとき、正体を現した。なにか獣が化けていた。その大僧正の書いた「柳に鳩」の絵が残っている。

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研屋町と弥勒町の宿に2人の供を連れた旅の僧が来た。灸をすえて好評だったが、安倍川で犬に食い殺されたとき、正体を現して狸になった。狸が死ぬと、お灸で癒えた病がぶり返した。

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- source : nichibun yokai database 安倍川 -

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo　江戸の名所 .

. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説　Japanese Legends - Introduction .


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takenoko bamboo shoots

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. Food vendors in Edo .
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Edo no takenoko 江戸の筍 bamboo shoots in Edo
Bambussprossen. Bambussprössling



. take no ko, takenoko 筍 bamboo shoots 　 .
笋（たけのこ）, takanna たかんな, たかうな、たけのこ、　竹の子
hachiku no ko 淡竹の子（はちくのこ）bamboo sprouts
madake no ko 苦竹の子（まだけのこ）- 真竹
moosoochiku no ko 孟宗竹の子（もうそうちくのこ）

. takenoko meshi 筍飯（たけのこめし） rice with bamboo sprouts .
..... nokomeshi のこめし, tako una たこうな, takanna たかんな
takenoko gohan sold in Meguro 目黒　 (see below)

The Edoites liked "first things", hatsumono 初物, and one of them were the first bamboo shoots of the season.
haru no takenoko 春の筍 - bamboo shoots in spring
..... haru take no ko 春筍 / ..... shunjun 春筍

There were even some kind of hot houses around Edo where vegetables could be grown earlier than the normal season outside and sold at a good price.



source :　furuhonkirikoya.blog

takenoko uri たけのこ売り vendor of bamboo shoots in Edo

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takenoko isha 筍医者 a kind of yabuisha 藪医者　quack doctor
or even worse than a yabu-isha.

. isha 医者, ishi 医師 doctors in Edo .
Sugita Genpaku 杉田玄白 （1733―1817） was called takenoko isha.


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. take no ko shinji 筍神事 bamboo shoots ritual .
at Shrine Asusuki Jinja 阿須々伎神社
myooga matsuri 茗荷祭 Japanese ginger festival in February


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. Bamboo shoots - takenoko bamboo shoot legends - 筍 / 竹の子 伝説 .
Taketori Monogatari 竹取物語 The Tale of the Bamboo cutter
also known as
Kaguya Hime かぐや姫 Princess Kaguya, Shining Princess
and more . . .

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- quote -
Springtime for bamboo
Few plants are as useful as bamboo. A member of the grass family, it is fast growing and very prolific given the right growing conditions, which makes it eco-friendly too.

The bamboo plant is indispensable in the Japanese kitchen, where every part of it is used. The leaves and bark are employed as wrappers, as well as in cooking. (Those little green leaf-shaped pieces of plastic called baran that are used as a divider in bentō boxes and takeout sushi are designed to emulate the shape of bamboo leaves — better sushi places still use the real thing.) The stalks of the plants are used as food containers, and thin skewers made of bamboo are used for everything from yakitori chicken to testing if your cake is done. So many kitchen implements are made from bamboo that it’s impossible to list them all, but it’s particularly hard to imagine making proper sushi rolls without a makisu, a bamboo sushi roll mat.


Although the tender bark is edible too, the most widely eaten parts of the bamboo plant are the shoots, which grow underground in the spring. Edible bamboo shoots are mentioned in the Kojiki, which was written in the early 8th century, but they weren’t widely eaten until the mid-1600s (early Edo Period), when a tender variety called mōsōchiku was introduced from China.

Fresh bamboo shoots are so strongly identified with springtime that they are accepted as a kigo (seasonal word) in haiku. Nowadays you can have precooked bamboo shoots year round, but in the days before canning, bamboo shoots were an eagerly anticipated sign of the end of winter. The best bamboo shoots are said to be those ones grown around Kyoto, with those grown in northern Kyushu also strong contenders.

Freshly dug bamboo shoots can be simply sliced and eaten raw, and fans of fresh raw bamboo shoots go foraging in the mountains just to enjoy this delicacy. But the longer the shoots are out of the ground the more fibrous they become, and the oxalic and phenolic acids become more pronounced, making them taste bitter unless they are cooked.

In Japan, this is most commonly done by boiling them in a mild alkaline solution — usually the white, cloudy water produced from rinsing rice, or plain water with some rice bran included, plus a sliced red chili pepper. It is believed that the outer skin of the bamboo shoots helps to tenderize them, so the skin is left on when the shoots are simmered.

Another method is to marinate the sliced bamboo shoots in grated daikon radish, which is also mildly alkaline, and preserves a crunchy texture. Still another way to reduce the bitterness is to cook the sliced bamboo shoots in oil, by deep frying them for example — this method is used in Chinese cooking.

Takenoko gohan (rice with bamboo shoots) is a quintessential springtime dish. For the recipe on this page, you could use bamboo shoots that are placed in water from rinsed rice and a sliced red chili pepper, and simmer them until a skewer goes through them easily. You can use ready-cooked bamboo shoots sold in vacuum packs or cans, but do try to make this with fresh bamboo shoots when they are in season. The rice is garnished with another quintessential springtime food — kinome, the tender young shoots of the sanshō pepper tree. Give it a go, and bring spring to your kitchen.
- source : Japan Times 2014 - Makiko Itoh -


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歌川豊国 Utagawa Toyokuni




Children digging for bamboo shoots
子どもたち、おおいに筍掘る図




Meguro no Takenoko 目黒の筍 Bamboo from Meguro 

山路治郎兵衛勝孝　Yamaji Jirobei Katsutaka introduced the farming of 孟宗竹 mosochiku bamboo in Meguro. He tried it first in the garden of his own villa in Shinawgawa.
He begun selling it in three venues:
1- He delivered it to the local markets in babmoo baskets high on the back of horses.
2- He sold them at the regular market of the Meguro Fudo temple, a popular spot in the Edo period.
3- He asked the tea stalls along the path to Meguro Fudo to sell 筍飯 "Babmoo Shoots with Rice" as a local speciality.




A school in Meguro has the bamboo shoots in their crest to our day.
目黒区立中目黒小学校


source :　edoyasai.sblo.jp/article



目黒の筍縁起 / 浅黄斑 The story of the bamboo shoots from Meguro


. Meguro Fudo Temple 目黒不動 - 瀧泉寺.


reference :　edococo.exblog.jp - 目黒の筍林

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Kabuki : Honchô Nijûshikô 本朝二十不孝　Honcho Niju Shiko
Twenty-Four Examples of Filial Piety

- quote -
From ancient time, the Twenty-Four Examples of Filial Piety, one of the Confucian classics, has taught respect for one's parents with stories that seem rather strange and even grotesque today.
For example, there is the story of the man whose sick mother wanted fresh fish in the dead of winter and so the man lay naked on the ice until he melted a hole through and the gods, taking pity on his plight saw that fish jumped out through this hole.
Another story has a mother who wants to eat fresh bamboo shoots in the dead of winter. A dutiful son digs through the snow and finds that, miraculously, there are bamboo shoots growing underneath the snow.
- source : www.kabuki21.com TAKENOKO HORI 筍堀」 -


. Legend about a son of great filial piety 親孝行息子 . .
Filial piety is a virtue highly praised in the teachings of Confucius.

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雪中筍掘り Digging for bamboo shoots in the snow
a sobachoko そば猪口 pot for dipping soba buckwheat noodles


source :　越前屋平太


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netsuke with bamboo shoot and snail 筍根付


CLICK for more photos !


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tea cup with bamboo design
名乾山写 飴釉七夕文茶碗作　者寺尾陶象


source :　www.gmo-toku.jp


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たけのこまつり Takenoko Bamboo shoots festival
in Uchikawa 内川, Ishikawa prefecture



A samurai from the Kaga han domaine called 岡本右太夫 Okamoto Migidayu (? - 1817) had first eaten bamboo shoot dishes in Edo and liked it very much. When he came back to Kanazawa he brought some bamboo plants of mosochiku 孟宗竹 with him. He re-planted them many times to find a type that suited the soil of Kanazawa and now they are a speciality of our town, Uchikawa.

別所町在住の向田吉右衛門がこの地に栽培した . . .
- source : uchikawa-k1.bz-office.net -


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. 河鍋暁斎 Kawanabe Kyosai .

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竹林での筍（たけのこ）掘り digging for bamboo shoots in a bamboo grove

歌川豊国 Utagawa Toyokuni

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- - - - - Edo specialities with bamboo shoots



junkan, shunkan 筍羹 / 笋羹 / 筍干 boiled bamboo shoots and
assorted simmered dishes, including vegetables rolled in a sheet of deep-fried tofu.
A favorite since the Muromachi period.
In Kagoshima bamboo shoots are boiled with salted meat of pigs (or wild boars) and other vegetables.

junkan / shunkan was first introduced as par of the
. fucha ryori　普茶料理 Chinese-style Buddhist vegetarian cuisine .


takenokawa makisushi 竹の皮巻すし Sushi rolled in bamboo leaves
- - - - - take no kawa 竹の皮　dried bamboo leaves were often used as wrappers.

takenoko aemono 竹の子 和え物 bamboo shoots with special dressing

takenoko dengaku　竹の子田楽 Dengaku with bamboo shoots

takenoko meshi 筍めし bamboo shoots boiled with rice

takenoko nikomi tamago 笋煎入卵 bamboo shoots boiled with eggs

takenoko sashimi　竹の子刺身 Sashimi with bamboo

takenoko shirumono　竹の子汁物 bamboo shoots in soup

takenoko sushi 筍すし Sushi made with bamboo pieces
- - - - - made from hachiku 淡竹 Hachiku bamboo.

takenoko teriyaki 照焼き broiled after being soaked in sweetened soy sauce


. 100 Favorite Dishes of Edo 江戸料理百選 .
Bamboo is not mentioned among them.

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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -

竹の子の千世もぽっきり折にけり
takenoko no chiyo mo pokkiri ore ni keri

the thousand year
bamboo shoot...
snap! broken

Kobayashi Issa


Robin D. Gill points out that pokkiri in the Edo era connoted "the sound made when a hard thing breaks." Shinji Ogawa explains:
"If there were no people, the bamboo shoot would grow to adulthood and enjoy the thousand years of its life. But someone has snapped the bamboo shoot for dinner."
Tr. David Lanoue

. WKD : take no ko, takenoko <> bamboo shoots 筍 .
- - kigo for summer - -


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by Ueda Mucho 上田無腸 (1734 - 1809)

無腸上田秋成 Mucho Ueda Akinari、筍圖併俳句讃 -
- source : oukodou/gallery -


. Ueda Akinari 上田秋成 (1734 - 1809) .
He is famous for his eerie ghost stories and strange fiction in Japan.

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. Edo yasai 江戸伝統野菜 Vegetables of Edo .

. 100 Favorite Dishes of Edo 江戸料理百選 .

. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売　- Introduction .

. senryu, senryū 川柳　Senryu poems in Edo .


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