. Food in Edo 江戸の食卓 .
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yaozen 八百善 Yaozen restaurant
source : blog.goo.ne.jp/shiotetsu_2011
This famous restaurant opened in 1803 near Yoshiwara. The founder was
Yaoya Zenshiroo 八百屋善四郎 Yaoya Zenshiro
(1768 - 1839)
The restaurant was located in 江戸浅草山谷 Asakusa Sanya. It has started as a food delivery service (仕出屋 shidashiya) and Zenshiro was the 4th generation.
He turned the restaurant to a ryoori chaya 料理茶屋 "tea stall serving food" and soon into a high-class venture, much loved by the 俳諧 Haikai poets of its time.
Some of its famous customers were
酒井抱一 Sakai Hoitsu (1760-1828), 大田南畝 Ota Nanpo (1749-1823), 亀田鵬斎 Kameda Hosai (1752 - 1826) and 谷文晁 Tani Buncho (1763 - 1841).
Zenshiro had also published a book:
Edo Ryuukoo Ryooritsu 江戸流行料理通 Edo Ryuko Ryori-Tsu
The book contains the recipes of the seasonal dishes served at the restaurant.
He worked on it from 1822 to 1835, when it was finally all published.
CLICK for more photos !
The Kamaboko served at Yaozen was made from the following ingredients:
鰹味噌 bonito miso,、鯛 sea bream, 甘鯛 sweet sea bream、鱚 Kisu whiting, 鮭 salmon, 鰆 Sawara makerel, 鱈 codfish, 平目 flunder, 生貝 raw shells, 雲丹 Uni sea urchin, 烏賊 Ika cuttlefish
玉子黄身 yellow of an egg, 濃茶 thick (strong) tea.
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Of the first catch of the very expensive First Bonito, three fish were given to a famous restaurant Yaozen
for the price of 2 Ryo.
The price for a normal menu at Yaozen was
一人前が銀十文
. WKD : hatsugatsuo 初鰹 first bonito .
- quote
創業享保二年 江戸料理「八百善」
- - - - - Check out the homepage of the present Yaozen :
- source : yaozen.net
八百善を茶漬けにする
yaozen wa chozuke ni suru
Let's go to Yaozen to have some O-Chazuke.
(O-chazuke was a cheap dish of plain cold rice with a bit of flavor and warmed with pouring green tea over it.)
. chaya, -jaya 茶屋 tea shop, tea stall .
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source : ab.auone-net.jp/~hcstoria/shibutsu
Visitors at the second floor of Yaozen 八百善の二階座敷
in the middle is 亀田鵬斎 Kameda Hosai, on the left 大窪詩佛 Okubo Shibutsu (1767 - 1837), on the right 蜀山人 Shokusanjin (Ota Nanpo) and with the back to the onlooker, 谷文晁 Tani Buncho.
Painting by 鍬形恵斎 Kuwagata Keisai (北尾政美 Kitao Masayoshi) (1764 - 1824)
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- quote -
Yaozen (Sanya)
Founded in 1717 in Asakusa Sanya and became one of the most famous restaurants in Edo, and became a high class salon where a number of writers and artists gathered. Playwright and author of comic poems Ota Nanpo was a regular patron of the restaurant and composed a poem that praised the restaurant as first-class.
歌川広重 Utagawa Hiroshige
In 1822 the cuisine text Edo Ryuko Ryoritu was published, which also became popular as a souvenir of Edo.
- source : ndl.go.jp/landmarks/e -
This is probably a meeting of a 狂句合 Kyoku poetry group. (Kyoku is similar to the present-day Senryu 川柳 humorous poems.
八百善と聞いて生姜ははづす也
yaozen to kiite shooga wa hazusu nari
shoga was a secret word for a ketchinboo けちん坊, a stingy person.
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Yaozen 八百善
After the great fire of Meireki 明暦の大火 in 1657, the shop opened anew at 新鳥越２丁目（山谷） Sanya.
扇地紙形枠内に 山谷八百善とあり、風景は隅田川。石浜には上客用の別荘がありました。
人物は柳橋金子屋の小竹。The lady is O-Take from Yanagibashi.
豊原国周 Toyohara Kunichika (1835 – 1900)
Around 1810 it started anew as a Shidashiya and from 1818 it built some 座敷 rooms to entertain the visitors.
守貞漫稿 Morisada Manko writes that in 1853 Yaozen has stopped to have guest in his house, and did only delivery service of food, but around 1850 begun anew to have guests.
栗山善四郎 Kuriyama Zenshiro, the fourth generation of Yaozen masters, begun inviting the literati of his time.
Even 葛飾北斎 Katsushika Hokusai frequented his restaurant.
- - - ryooritsuu, ryoori tsuu 料理通 a food expert, gourmet of our time.
- Here is the list of a 会席料理 Kaiseki Ryori menu
鱠 -- 紙塩鯛薄作り・じゅん菜巻き葉・織切りわさび、煎酒酢。
汁 -- 粒はつたけ・はぜすり流し。
椀盛り -- うずら摘入れ・笹がき牛蒡・丸しめじ。
焼物 -- 骨抜き鮎の魚田。
吸い物 -- 裂きまつたけ・絞り汁。
口取り -- 火取りのしあわび・桜の葉塩漬け。
香の物 -- 菜漬け・丸うり味噌漬け。
硯蓋七色 -- 鯛かまぼこ・あわびやわらか煮・篠さより・裏白かわたけ・黒くわいきんとん・ゆずうま煮・朝日防風。
- reference : kabuki-za.com/syoku -
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Comparison of Menus (Oryori Kondate Kurabe)
1815 (Bunka 12)
This is a ranking list covering serious restaurants within Edo. Promoters include
"Yaoya Zenshirō" also known as "Yaozen", an owner of the high-end restaurant that was loved by many educated men.
Since the beginning of the Bunka/Bunsei eras (1804 - 1830), many ranking lists that give an insight into the food culture in Edo in those days were published. This ranking is one of them, with Tagawa-ya, a famous catering restaurant in front of Daion-ji temple (in Ryūsen, Taitō ward) as the top-ranked restaurant in the east, and Kawaguchi, a Japanese style luxury restaurant in Hashiba (in Taitō ward) as the top in the west. Hashiba was an elegant place along the Sumida river with many vacation houses of wealthy merchants and luxury Japanese restaurants.
"Kayaba-chō Iseta" written in the center of referees refers to the restaurant Iseya Tahei in front of Kayaba-chō Yakushi-mae (Koto-bashi bridge in Sumida ward). This restaurant offered Tsukudani (food boiled down in soy sauce) to visitors who had come to worship at Sumiyoshi Shrine (in Tsukuda, Chūō ward) as something to go with young sake, and developed it into one of the local specialties in Edo.
- source : library.metro.tokyo.jp/Portals-
. Hashiba 橋場 Hashiba district, "place with a bridge" - Taito ward .
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source : ja.ukiyo-e.org/image
上野 八百善 Ueno Yaozen
豊原国周 1878 - Toyohara Kunichika (1835 – 1900)
開化三十六會席 - Kaika sanjuroku kaiseki /
Thirty-six famous restaurants and views of civilization
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. Food in Edo 江戸の食卓 .
. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .
. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .
. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .
. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .
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[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #yaozen #yaozenrestaurant - - - -
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