11/24/2015

Edo Yuzen Dyeing

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. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .
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Edo Yuuzen 江戸友禅 Edo Yuzen

- quote -
yuuzenzome 友禅染  "Yuzen-style Kimono dyeing."
A form of paste-resist dyeing with beautiful colors and pictorial designs. Itis named after the Kyoto fan painter 宮崎友禅 Miyazaki Yuzen, who is credited with perfecting the technique around 1700.
. yuuzenzome 友禅染 - "Yuzen-style dyeing" .
- Introduction -




- quote
Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen 東京手描き友禅 友禅

Main Areas of Manufacture
Shinjuku Ward, Nerima Ward, Arakawa Ward

Traditional Technologies and Techniques
-- For Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen (hand-painted kimono), preliminary designs are sketched on textiles using an extract from spiderwort (青花 aobana, Asian dayflower), etc.
-- Resist dyeing is done by applying either dye-resistant pastes to textiles or by covering areas with wax.
-- Various types of brush are used for coloring and the painting of designs.
-- Crests are applied either by brush or by using paper cut-out stencils.
-- Embroidery is undertaken by hand.
1- 下絵は、青花等を用いて描く。
2- 防染は、糸目糊、白付け糊、堰(せき)出し糊、伏せ糊、又はろう(原文は「ろう」は漢字)描きによる。
3- 挿し及び描き染めは筆又は刷毛(はけ)を用いる。
4- 紋章上絵(もんしょううわえ)は、毛描き又は紋章彫刻をした型紙を用いる刷り込みによる。
5- 刺繍(ししゅう)は、手刺繍による。

Traditionally Used Raw Materials
Woven silk textiles - 絹織物




History and Characteristics
The origins of yuzen dyeing are said to lay in the Edo Period's Jokyo Era (1684-1687) during which there was an artist in Kyoto whose real name was Hioki Kiyochika 日置清親 (1650-1736). This person nevertheless used Miyazaki Yuzensai 宮崎友禅斎 as his professional name.

In 好色一代男 "The Life of an Amorous Man," a well-known work of fiction of the Edo Period by Ihara Saikaku (1642-1693), there is a woodblock print called "The Twenty Dyed Fan Yuzen," this title hints at the fact that Miyazaki Yuzensai was also known to be a painter of fans. One day, due to a request received from a drapery, Miyazaki painted a design that featured a pattern of family crests, and it subsequently became wildly popular. The pattern represented a departure from dyed goods up until then, with its popularity said to have stemmed from its use of color. Ogata Korin 尾形光琳 (1658-1716), one of the most well-known artists in Japanese history also tried his hand at yuzen techniques, and examples of his work remain with us today.

When Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616) established the Edo Shogunate (1603-1868), many dyers and artists employed by daimyo (feudal lords) relocated from Kyoto to Edo. Various technologies and techniques were patronized, and this resulted in the creation of a wide variety of both woven textiles and dyed goods. That water was an integral part of dyeing processes also proved a very important factor. Thus, many dyers ended up living along the banks of the Kanda River.

A drapery called "Echigoya" 越後屋呉服店 opened in Nihonbashi (now known as the Mitsukoshi Department Store) in the first year of the Enpo Era (1673). It established a dye works further up the Kanda River around Tokyo Yamanote (close to modern Takadanobaba in Shinjuku Ward). Even today, the largest number of dye works in Tokyo is found in Shinjuku. Concerning Tokyo Tegaki Yuzen (hand-painted kimono), from development of conceptualizations, the sketching of preliminary designs, and until project completion, craftspeople carry out tasks as a continuous operation, each working individually. A feature of such kimono is that even within garments of a single color, there is a sense of beauty and elegance.

Tokyo Kogei Senshoku Cooperative Association
- source : sangyo-rodo.metro.tokyo.jp

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yuuzenzomeshi 友禅染師 artisan dyeing Yuzen cloths

Since the very expensive Kimonos made of stiching patterns with gold and silver thread and other kinds of high-class patterns were eventually forbidden in Edo, the craftsmen had to think of other methods to bring some "color" in the daily life of the citizens.

The process of Yusen-dyeing is quite complicated and soon specialists for each process came together in a workshop to share the work.
From painting the images, applying paste, adding color, steaming, drying,
washing in a river (yuuzen nagashi 友禅流し Yuzen nagashi
 . . . , drying again . . .



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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -

. Kaga Yuzen 加賀友禅 from Ishikawa .

加賀友禅えがく百花や冬灯
Kaga yuuzen egaku hyakka ya fuyu tomoshi

Kaga Yuzen
painted with so many flowers -
winter lights

Tr. Gabi Greve

楠久子 Kusu Hisako



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行く秋や加賀友禅の小風呂敷
yuku aki ya Kaga yuuzen no koburoshiki

autumn has come to an end -
this small Furoshiki wrapper
from Kaga Yuzen

Tr. Gabi Greve

新田美智子 Nitta Michiko


CLICK for more Yuzen Furoshiki !

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加賀友禅筆より草の花生まる 野崎ゆり香

しぐるるや加賀友禅の鏡掛 中橋文子
人とその影加賀友禅を晒しをり 石原八束
冬ざれの赤を散りばめ加賀友禅 中山純子
冬川をたぐり寄せては布放つ(加賀友禅) 飴山實

春雨の加賀友禅の街にあり 岩崎すゞ
短日や加賀友禅の先ぼかし 新井佳津子
赤多き加賀友禅にしぐれ来る 綾子

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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


[ . BACK to DARUMA MUSEUM TOP . ]
[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #edoyuzen #yuzen #yuuzen - - - -
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11/12/2015

Renjakucho District Kanda

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
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Renjakuchoo, Kanda renjaku machi 神田連雀町 Renjaku-Cho district
千代田区 Chiyoda ward

Now comprising the following districts in Kanda :
神田連雀町 - - - 万世橋 Manseibashi bridge toward 須田町一丁目 Sudacho first district and 、淡路町二丁目 Awajicho second district.
This district existed since 1573, was destroyed by fire in 1657. The inhabitants were relocated to
Mitaka, taking the names of 三鷹 地区名 - - 上連雀、下連雀. (- see below )
Now the 交通博物館 Traffic Museum is the central part of it.

The street vendors kept their backpacks at the entrance of the home. There were also many craftsmen who made the renjaku backpacks.



The name refers to the renjaku 連尺 / 連索 backpacks of the street vendors who lived there, carrying their ware around Edo.
shiyoiko 背負子(しよいこ) "street vendor with a backpack"

renjaku akinai 連尺商い "doing business with a backpack"

. kago 籠 / 篭 / かご basket, baskets of all kinds .
seoi-kago 背負いかご / 背負い籠 backpack basket

The Chinese characters are a pun :
renjaku 連雀 Japanese waxwing, Bombycilla japonica
. WKD : kigo for late autumn .

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江戸行商百姿 - 花咲 一男

. gyooshoonin 行商人 Gyoshonin - street vendors .

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Introducing some sweet stores in Renjaku loved by Ikenami Shotaro
- quote
池波正太郎と神田・連雀町を歩く
神田・連雀町は空襲を受けたのにもかかわらず都心の中で数少ない焼け残った地域です(関東大震災では焼けています)。町名の由来は行商人が背負う荷籠の連尺に因んでいると言われています。
尺が雀に変わって「連雀町」になったそうです。



残念ながら昭和の初めにはこの名前は消えてしまいました。この地域は天正年間(1573)にはすでに町屋が開けており、明暦3年(1657)の振袖火事の後、ここの住民は新田開発の為、現在の三鷹駅の南側に移されています。そのため三鷹の地区名が上連雀、下連雀となっているわけです。また現在の交通博物館の所は中央線の旧万世橋駅です。明治45年に完成していますが万世橋駅を通るはずだった総武線が秋葉原駅から直接お茶の水駅に繋がった為、昭和11年には駅は廃止されています。そのため東京駅にあった交通博物館が旧万世橋駅に移ってきました。昭和初期までは新橋、新宿、上野に負けない大きな繁華街だったそうです.
(「地図から消えた東京の町」から)
- source : tokyo-kurenaidan.com/ikenami-renjyaku

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Renjakumachi れんじゃく町 (Renjaku District)
Kanda Gosairei 神田御祭礼 (The Kanda Festival)

Torii Kiyonaga (鳥居清長)

Girl dressed as the legendary gold merchant Kaneuri Kichiji, seated on a horse piled with cushions, and surrounded by 'attendants', part of the Kanda Festival procession.
- source : britishmuseum.org -

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Kaneuri Kichiji 金売吉次 / 金売り吉次 / 吉次信高 / 橘次末春
Kichiji Nobutaka, Kitsuji Sueharu, Kane-uri Kichiji
a gold merchant of the Heian period, involved in trade with Ôshû, Hiraizumi in Tohoku 奥州の金商人吉次.
He is mentioned in the old records about the Heike, and Yoshitsune.
『平治物語』『平家物語』『義経記』『源平盛衰記』


source : mt-zao-onsen-resort

- quote -
When Shanaō (Ushiwakamaru, later Yoshitsune) was sixteen years old, a merchant named Kitsuji Sueharu (also known as Kaneuri Kichiji or Kichiji Nobutaka) visited Kurama based on rumors of the talented youth. He had no idea what the child in question looked like, but he happened to spot Shanaō while walking the mountain path. He was surprised by the outstanding figure - almost doubted his eyes at the splendor - but Kitsuji knew he found the famous child of Yoshitomo.
When he returned to Oshu, he told Fujiwara no Hidehira of his experience. Hidehira, who was ecstatic to hear that the rumors of Yoshitomo's offspring were true, ordered for the boy to be fetched to Oshu at once. He wished to have the child nearby should the battle against the Heike one day rise again. After being informed about the history behind the rumors, Hidehira was willing to accept the boy as though he were own son, wishing to protect Yoshitomo's lost legacy.
- source : wiki/Yoshitsune_Minamoto -

. Minamoto no Yoshitsune 源の義経 (1159 - 1189) .
- Introduction -
Shanaoo, Shanaō 遮那王 Shanao (his boyhood name at Kurama)
牛若丸 Ushiwakamaru // Hoogan 判官 Hogan (his court title)


Oshu Hidehira Uhatsu no Hanamuko: Kurayama no dan -
奥州秀衡有うはつ壻(おうしゅうひでひらうはつのはなむこ);
Awaji Puppet Theater
- quote -
One day, a Heike warrior Nanba Jûrô came to the foot of Kuramayama mountain in Kyoto. He stopped at a teahouse, which served dengaku (skewered tofu glazed with miso). He came here because he heard that Ushiwakamaru of Genji clan had hidden himself in the mountain. Suddenly, a shout of victory came from the rear mountain. Nanba Jûrô confirmed that Ushiwaka had collected his allies as he suspected and went back to let Heike party know the fact.

Ushiwaka appeared from the rear mountain and easily defeated 5 monk-soldiers of the Kuramayama temple. Viewing this fight, the teahouse manager laughed at defeated poor monks. The monks got angry with the manager and tried to beat him, but they were defeated again this time by the teahouse manager and chased away.

When Ushiwaka tried to fight with the manager, the manager suddenly kneed in front of him and said ‘You are truly the lord Minamoto no Ushiwaka’. In fact, the manager named Kaneuri Kichiji was a servant of the lord Hidehira in Ôshû. He showed Ushiwaka a letter from his lord, which tells that Hidehira wanted to invite Ushiwaka to Ôshû to prepare for a war against Heike. Ushiwaka accepted the proposal and left for Ôshû, disguising himself as a mean road-horse man. Ushiwakamaru was 16 at that time.

In the meantime, Nanba Jûrô came back bringing Heike soldiers with him. Kichiji wore a mask of Tengu (a long-nosed mountain goblin) and tried to threaten and chase them away. But he was discovered as human and he fought with them. Finally, Kichiji destroyed all Heike warriors and hurried for Ôshû, following Ushiwaka.
- source : awajiningyoza.com -

- - - - - quote -
Yumeyakata - historical tale of the Oshu-Fujiwara clan
Scene 18: Yoshitsune entering Hiraizumi




Hidehira, the third generation Oshu-Fujiwara, was appointed governor of the area in 1170 and governor of Mutsu in 1181. Hidehira became the most powerful man in Mutsu and was known as the ‘King’ of northern Japan. At the same time, Yoshitsune Minamoto came to Hiraizumi, counting on Hidehira’s help.
Yoshitsune was accompanied by a gold trader named Kaneuri Kichiji.
Yoshitsune was the son of Yoshitomo Minamoto who was defeated by Kiyomori Taira in Heiji Rebellion. The scene depicts Hidehira welcoming Yoshitsune in front of the mansion Kyara-no-gosho.
- source : yumeyakata-historical-tale-of-oshu -

After arranging the meeting of Hidehira and Yoshitsune, Kichiji went back to Kyoto, with many presents and a lot of of gold dust.
At least that is what the legends tell us. There are doubts whether he was a real person or just an addition to the Yoshitsune legends.
Still there are places which claim to have the grave of Kichiji (or his brother) in various parts on the way from Kyoto to Hiraizumi 平泉. Some legends say he was murdered, others say he fell ill and died on the way.

. 牛若丸 Ushiwakamaru - Yoshitsune 義経 .


source : echatxfiles.blog
The mysterious Kaneuri Kichiji

- reference : kaneuri kichiji -

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Mitaka Kami-Renjaku 三鷹上連雀村 Renjaku village district in Mitaka
三鷹市 Mitaka city, 三鷹上連雀一丁目から上連雀九丁目 from the first to the ninth sub-district



The new farming area was called 連雀前新田 Renjaku-mae Shinden New Fields in 1957, after 明暦の大火 the Great Fire of Meireki.
Mitaka used to be the hawking area of the Tokugawa Shoguns.

Mitaka city 三鷹市 "three hawks"
is located on the Kantō Plain, just outside the 23 special wards of Tokyo Metropolis, which are on its eastern borders.
The Tamagawa Josui Canal, which runs alongside Mitaka station, has an important place in history, built in 1653 to feed the local metropolis. It is also the place where novelist Osamu Dazai committed suicide in 1948. The National Astronomical Observatory of Japan is located in Mitaka.
- History
The area of present-day Mitaka was part of ancient Musashi Province. In the post-Meiji Restoration catastral reform of July 22, 1878, the area became part of Kitatama District in Kanagawa Prefecture.
The village of Mitaka was created on April 1, 1889 with the establishment of municipalities law. Kitatama District was transferred to the administrative control of Tokyo Metropolis on April 1, 1893. Mitaka was raised to town status in 1940.
Mitaka City was officially founded on November 3, 1950. A motion to merge with neighboring Musashino City failed in 1955 by only a single vote in the Mitaka city assembly.
- wikipedia -


牟礼 Mure, 井の頭 Inokashira, 新川 Shinkawa, 深大寺 Jindaiji, 井口 Iguchi, 北野 Kitano, 野崎 Nozaki,
大沢 Ozawa, 中原 Nakahara
Many jutaku danchi 住宅団地 housing districts. Mitaka is primarily a bedroom community for Tokyo.

. Inokashira 井の頭 "Head of the Well" .

. Jindaiji 深大寺 Jindai-Ji, Daruma Temple .

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Aoi-no-yashiro, Torakashiwa-no-yashiro 青渭社 虎柏社
Aoi-no-yashiro is a shrine located in Jindai-ji Temple, Chōfu City
and has attracted worshippers as the head tutelary shrine of Jindai-ji Temple since old times.
It was also called 青波天神社 Seiha Tenjin (blue wave god) Shrine
because spring water in a large pond within the shrine grounds looked like blue waves.
Torakashiwa Shrine located in 調布市佐須町 Sazumachi, Chōfu City
was built during the reign of 崇峻天皇 Emperor Sushun (589).
It is said that the shrine was built as the village tutelary god of the Chinese and Koreans
who settled in 狛江郷 Komae-gō (the area covering present Komae City and 調布 Chofu City).
-source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

- quote -
Senryū-ji Temple 泉龍寺
It is said that Senryū-ji Temple began when 良弁 Rōben, the priest who opened 東大寺 Tōdai-ji Temple in Nara,
built a temple in this area when he offered prayers for rain in 765.
Although the temple deteriorated during the Warring States period,
it was reconstructed in the Edo period by 石谷清定 Ishigaya Kiyosada
who took an office of estate steward in charge of 入間村 Irima village (Chōfu City) and
和泉村 Izumi village (Komae City) under Tokugawa Ieyasu.
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

- quote -
Izumi-mura Reisen 和泉村霊泉 Izumi Village
It is said that spring gushed out when the priest Rōben offered prayers for rain.
The spring is the sacred spring that still remains in the temple grounds
and gave the place its name of Izumi (which means "spring").
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

- further reference : mitaka tokyo -

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Shinkawa 新川 Shinkawa sub-district "new river"
新川一丁目 - 新川二丁目 first and second sub-district
in the former Kyobashi area 京橋地域.
The area used to be called 平川 Hirakawa (the former river 元の神田川 Kandagawa), it was an island in the estuary of 八丁堀川 Hatchoborigawa called 江戸中島 Edo Nakashima (Nakajima). During the rebuilding of Edo by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the rivers were relocated and the Shinkawa area developed at the Reiganjima area.

. Reiganjima 霊巌島 / 霊岸島 Island Reiganjima .
中央区新川 / Shinkawa, Chūō ward
Saint Reigan developed this land between the rivers Kameshimagawa and Sumidagawa and built the temple Reigan-Ji.

. Hirakawachoo 平川町 Hirakawa-Cho, Hirakawa district .

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. Kawase Hasui 川瀬巴水 (1883 - 1957) .
woodblock prints


Yoru no Shinkawa 夜乃新川 / 夜の新川 Shinkawa at Night (1919)
from the series Twelve Scenes of Tokyo

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. Kanda 神田 Kanda district 千代田区 Chiyoda ward .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .

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[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #kandarenjaku #renjakucho #kaneurikichiji #kichiji #- - - -
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11/03/2015

BOOK asobi

[ . BACK to DARUMA MUSEUM TOP . ]
. Reference and Links .
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- Edo geemu 江戸ゲーム games enjoyed in Edo -


- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Museum -

[ 折鶴 orizuru (origami folded crane) ]
This describes how to make 49 types of renzuru - the joining of 2 to 100 paper cranes out of one single sheet of paper.
The descriptions, however, do not actually give specific steps on how to create the various types of renzuru, but only shows how one would prepare the necessary cuts in the open origami paper before making the renzuru.

[ 影絵 Kage-e (shadow pictures ]
In the past, people enjoyed shadow performances at banquets and other functions, using hands and legs, or small implements to create shapes in the form of a wild goose or a cat behind a shoji sliding door. Try and imagine what it would look like behind the shoji and how the shadows would appear on the shoji.

[ 文字絵 Moji-e (picture with characters ]
Here you see characters depicting the names of occupations drawn into the pictures, forming the bodyline of the figures. You can learn about the manners and customs of venders and artisans during the Edo period. Can you see where the characters are hidden in the pictures?
Tawamureru Edo no moji-e 戯れる江戸の文字絵 Playful picture characters in the Edo period
Author: Yang Xiao Jie; Itasaka Noriko (Gen. Ed.) published by Maar-sha

[ 知恵の板 Chie-no-ita (tangram) ]
Chie-no-ita is made from a square board cut into 7 pieces. It is a puzzle game where you arrange 7 pieces to make various shapes.
How to play: You can select one of the 3 square boards to bring up the image of a completed form in the center of a page.
Drag 7 pieces around with you to match the final shape.

[ 判じ物 Hanjimono (watch and guess puzzle) ]
In the Edo period, there were many printed puzzles published to allow people to guess hidden words and meaning of pictures. This one here not only hides the place names, it also hides the title outside the frames and even the name of the printer. Can you guess the words inside the frames and the meaning of the pictures?

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. kage-e 影絵 shadow pictures .

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Impromptu Shadow Series (即興かけぼし尽し Sokkyō Kageboshi-zukushi)
This is a kage-e (shadow picture), a type of omocha-e (toy picture), which was painted by Utagawa Hiroshige I, the famous artist for prints depicting famous spots.
People in the Edo period enjoyed Kageboshi, in which people showed shapes of a wild goose or a cat by casting shadows on shōji doors using the hands, feet, or small gadgets.
- source : tokyo Metropolitan Library -

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. hanji-e  江戸の判じ絵 Picture Puzzles, Rebus Pictuers .


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遊びの語源と博物誌
小林祥次郎
vocabulary - Asobi no gogen



- quote
日常のなかにひそむ「遊び」の語源と歴史をご紹介。
コトバから探る日本人の智恵とユーモア。

- contents  目次

1 子供の遊び
じゃんけん/かごめかごめ/ぶらんこ/おもちゃ/独楽/べえ独楽/ビー玉/面子/凧/こけし/双六

2 文芸
挙句/月並/けりが付く/合点/絶句/結句

3 雅楽
楽屋/二の舞/二の句/乙/打ち合わせ/呂律/やたら/図に乗る/太平楽 taiheiraku /千秋楽/後生楽/めりはり

4 楽器
琴/琵琶/笛/尺八/鼓/鈴/三味線/派手/間抜け/喇叭/チャルメラ/ピアノ

5 歌舞伎など
歌舞伎/芝居/梨園/俳優/大立者/二枚目・三枚目/女形/大根役者/馬脚/大向こう/檜舞台/板に付く/どんでん返し/かぶりつき/花道/奈落/黒幕/幕開き・幕切れ/幕無し/幕の内/捨て台詞/切り口上/だんまり/見得/立ち回り/泥仕合/正念場/大詰め/ちょん/けれん/差し金/鳴り物入り/大時代/十八番・おはこ/善玉・悪玉/半畳/どさ回り/浄瑠璃/文楽/義太夫/でくのぼう/べらぼう/のろま/脚光/すててこ

6 囲碁・将棋
囲碁/将棋/局面/序盤・中盤・終盤/結局/定石/駄目/岡目八目/一目置く/布石/捨て石/手順/手抜き/手詰まり/手筋/高飛車/成金/将棋倒し

7 賭博
博打/胴元/出鱈目/出たとこ勝負/一か八か/四の五の/丁稚/付け目/思う壺/ぼんくら/裏目/一点張り/はったり/カルタ/ピンからキリまで/先斗町/すべた/やくざ/オイチョカブ/ぴか一/麻雀

8 遊郭
郭/花柳界/吉原/島原/祇園/傾城/おいらん/お茶っぴい/おてんば/蓮っ葉/しゃらくさい/かまとと/冷やかす/地獄/達磨/色


- source : bensei.jp/index.php?main

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Kobayashi Issa - toshi wasure

一人の太平楽や年わすれ
ichi nin no taiheiraku ya toshiwasure

all alone
babbling idiocies...
drinking away the year


This haiku refers to an end-of-year drinking party.
Taiheiraku is "irresponsible talk." Evidently, the sake is loosening someone's tongue (Issa's?).

David Lanoue

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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Edo bakufu 江戸幕府 The Edo Government .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. Legends and Tales from Japan 伝説 - Introduction .


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11/02/2015

seihonshi book binder

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. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .
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seihonshi 製本師 bookbinder - Buchbinder
seihonya 製本屋 - seihon gyoosha 製本業者

seihon ginooshi 製本技能士



- quote
Bookbinding is the process of physically assembling a book from an ordered stack of paper sheets that are folded together into sections or sometimes left as a stack of individual sheets. The stack is then bound together along one edge by either sewing with thread through the folds or by a layer of flexible adhesive. For protection, the bound stack is either wrapped in a flexible cover or attached to stiff boards. Finally, an attractive cover is adhered to the boards and a label with identifying information is attached to the covers along with additional decoration. Book artists or specialists in book decoration can greatly expand the previous explanation to include book like objects of visual art with high value and artistic merit of exceptional quality in addition to the book's content of text and illustrations.
Bookbinding is a specialized trade
that relies on basic operations of measuring, cutting, and gluing.
- - - More in the WIKIPEDIA !

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- - - - - some keywords

. akahon 赤本 red book .
- and more about ezooshi 絵草子 Ezoshi, illustrated book or magazine



chitsu 帙 wrap-around box, cloth-covered stiff box


detchō, detchoosoo 粘葉装 Detchoso, paste-leaf book
(see kochōsō butterfly binding below)
pasted paper leaf book


fukuro-toji, fukurotoji 袋綴 pouch-binding
- quote -
Also read fukurotsuzuri. Also called karatoji 唐綴 and fukurozoushi 袋草子 (fukurozooshi). Lit. pouch-binding.

The most common type of book-binding in Japan, made of thin sheets of paper which are inscribed or printed on only one side, folded in half, text-side out, and stacked together. Covers are added to the front and back, and the book is stitched along the spine (the edges opposite the folds) so that each double-leaved page forms a pouch, fukuro 袋, which is open at the top and bottom. Although variations exist, typically four tiny holes are made at equidistant lengths along the spine edge and the sheets and covers are then bound together tightly with thread. The fukurotoji was introduced from China and began to replace most other binding styles after the 14c.
One of the earliest examples is the Anthology of Regent Ichijou ICHIJOU SESSHOUSHUU 一条摂政集 (mid-12c). Double-leaved pages are pasted together indicating the initial stage of pouch-binding.
- source : JAANUS -


hanshitagaki 版下書き copyist


. horishi 彫り師 block carver .


kansusoo, kansusō 巻子装 Kansuso, scroll binding  copyist
a binding style of a horizontally long sized scroll of paper

. kibyooshi 黄表紙 Kibyoshi, "yellow book covers" .

kikai-zuri 機械刷り machine printing


kochōsō, koochoosoo 胡蝶装 “butterfly binding”
- quote -
Lit. butterfly book.
A type of book-binding, which, according to some, is the same as *detchousou (detchoosoo, detchōsō 粘葉装 (paste-leaf book). Others maintain that it is the same as *retchousou 列帖装 (a multisection book). The finished book opens so that each pair of leaves joined with paste stand out at an angle like the wings of a butterfly.
The term kochousou (Ch: hudiezhuang) was used for this type of paste binding in China.


retchōsō, retchoosoo 列帖装 Retchoso
Also tetsuyousou (tetsuyoosoo) 綴葉装 or retsuyousou (retsuyoosoo) 列葉装 retsuyoso.
A multisection book. A type of Japanese book-binding. The first three to five sheets of paper are piled up and folded in half to make a set. Then several sets of folded sheets are arranged in a neat pile with the folded edges forming the spine. The binding is made by sewing the sections together using a complex and time-consuming procedure. The finished book, therefore, can be opened perfectly flat.
Retchousou originated in Japan in the 12c, and was widly used for works of native literature, including narrative stories, *nou 能 texts, and anthologies of Japanese poetry (waka 和歌). It was not used for Chinese or Buddhist texts. Confusingly, the terms *kochousou 胡蝶装 (butterfly book) and *yamatotoji 大和綴 are sometimes used to refer to multisection books, and during the late Edo period even the term *detchousou 粘葉装 became confused with retchousou.
- source : JAANUS -


seihon 製本 bookbinding -
seihonjo 製本所 bookbinding factory, bookbindery, Buchbinderei


. surishi 摺り師 printer .


techōsō (see Yamato toji)
tetsuyoosoo, tetsuyōsō 綴葉装 “multisection” binding



wasoobon, wasoohon 和装本 Japanese book making
wahon 和本 Japanese Book


yamato-toji 大和綴 Yamato binding technique
- quote -
Also musubitoji 結び綴じ, lit. knot-binding.

The simplest style of book-binding and usually a type of pouch-binding fukurotoji 袋綴. The process of making yamatotoji involves punching four (or sometimes two) horizontal slits in the book near the spine and threading a flat cord (or sometimes a strip of paper) through each pair of slits. The cord ends are brought to the front, and each cord is secured tightly with a square knot.
Yamatotoji also uses long corner pieces added to strengthen the otherwise unsupported corners. Extant examples, dating from the 12c, are decorative books, often waka 和歌 anthologies, in which colorfully designed cords and front and back covers are used. This binding style, is sometimes called kochousou 胡蝶装 (kochoso), although this generally refers to a different type of book-binding.
- source : JAANUS -


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the Book in Japan:
A Cultural History from the Beginnings to the Nineteenth Century
by Peter F. Kornicki (Author)

This monograph covers every major aspect of the book in traditional Japan: its place in Japanese history; books as material objects; manuscript cultures; printing; the Edo period book trade; authors and readers; and importation and exportation."
- at amazon com and google books -

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- quote -
Japanese Bookbinding
Here is a brief sketch of the development of the Japanese book binding trade from its early development to its commercial beginnings and eventual industrialization written by Dana Gee.
The word in Japanese for bookbinding is seihon.

Papermaking was developed in China during the Han dynasty in the second century AD; the earliest recorded reference to papermaking in Japan was around 610 AD. The earliest “books” were calligraphed paper rolls. Beginning during the Tang dynasty period in China (618-907), Buddhist texts were folded accordion style, making the texts easier to handle, less fragile. The folded edges form the edges of the pages. This is called 折本 orihon (concertina or accordion-style binding) in Japan, common up until the nineteenth century, and is still used. In addition to Buddhist sutras, this form was used for maps, calendars and some types of reference books.

Also developed during the Chinese Tang period, the “butterfly binding” (detchō or kochōsō in Japan) came into use, mostly for printed books. Each piece of paper was folded in half and laid on top of its predecessor; a cover was glued to the folded edges. When opened, each pair of pages “tends to stand up with an effect resembling the wings of a butterfly.”i

From the late Heian period (794-1185) onwards, another technique, yamato-toji (or techōsō) was used, mostly for manuscripts of Japanese literary works. Folded pages were placed one inside the other forming a booklet or fascicle, and thread was used to sew them together along the fold, and several of these would be joined together to make one volume.ii

By the time the book trade in Japan became established, in the Tokugawa or Edo period (1603-1867), the form known as fukuro-toji was the most common type of Japanese binding. Practised in China early as the Tang period, widespread by the Ming dynasty period (1368-1644), and transmitted to Japan in the Muromachi period (1392-1573), by end of which, in the late 16th century, it had become the standard form for printed books. Each page had printed or handwritten text on one side only, folded with the text on the outside, and placed on top of its predecessor; assembled pages are sewn together, the stitches passing through the blank margins next to the loose edges, so the sewn edges form the spine and folds form the edges of pages. This stringbound style continued through the Meiji period.

Books were handmade and calligraphed until the advent of block printing, originating in China, with the earliest known East Asian examples produced in Japan and Korea in the eighth century. Texts produced for the reading public were not introduced until much later in the Heian period, in the eleventh century. In the Kamakura period the temples of Kyoto began printing; it was the center of printing for the next 500 years. By the Tokugawa period, most books were produced in three cities: Edo, Kyoto and Osaka. It was during this period that the rapid growth of the publishing industry created the publishing houses, guilds and book trade professions. Printing shifted from private printing under patronage to mostly commercial printing by the mid 17th century. Movable type was introduced in the mid 16th century, but woodblock printing was dominant until the 1880s.

During the Tokugawa period, the process for producing a book was a collaboration of artists and craftsmen and women. First the text would be given to the copyist, or hanshitagaki (the copy was called the hanshita). The copied text would be given to the block carver, horishi. The carved block would be passed to the printer – surishi – and after printing to another worker for page alignment. The maker of covers was the hyoshiya. Book covers would be paper with thick backing; from about the 17th century onward, design became an important part of commercialization and marketing.

By early Meiji the covers were stiffer, made of cardboard. The printed pages and covers would be passed to a binder who sewed them together (seihongyousha or seihonya – the first word refers more to the individual, although it can refer to the business; the second word refers more to the shop – it is a question of emphasis).iii The word shitateya was generally used for a person who finished off sewing jobs and the word shitate was sometimes used for the final stages of production of books including covers and sewing.iv A book having soft covers would have a chitsu, or wrap-around box, made of stiff cardboard covered in cloth. Then the completed work (with printed protective paper wrappers, beginning in the second half of Tokugawa) would be sent to the bookseller.v

In the Tokugawa period, book covers began to evolve from simple undecorated colored paper to more artistic design work. Sometimes the color of the cover would be based on content. In Edo in the 18th century it was common for lighter genres of fiction to have different color covers, the genre names derived from the color: akahon “red books” and kibyoshi “yellow covers.”vi In the seventeenth century, literary works began to regularly include illustrations; artists were named in colophons. Book cover designs became more elaborate, with embossed or burnished paper designs, and later color woodblock prints from popular ukiyo-e artists. In the 19th century, lavish color woodblock covers were made for the elaborately designed illustrated popular fiction books called gōkan.vii

With larger firms, all the book trade craftspeople would work together in-house – “but smaller-scale publishers contracted some parts of the process out to sub-contracting specialists like block-carvers and binders, and cover-makers ran their own separate firms from the early seventeenth century onwards.”viii Bookbinders did not get credit like publishers/booksellers, artists or designers. Sometimes copyists and block carvers were named in colophon, but rarely binders.

Women worked as binders during the Tokugawa period.
Peter Kornicki, in The book in Japan: a cultural history from the beginnings to the nineteenth century, says: “… although the whole process of production and distribution of books is commonly presented as if it were exclusively male, this picture needs some correction … it seems that bookbinding was often undertaken, at least in 19th century, by women in the publisher’s household, and there is a record in a book published in 1716 to the effect that copyist responsible for the clean copy or hanshita was a woman. … a few women were active as publishers and booksellers, having inherited the family firms when there were no male heirs available.”ix Other binders transitioned to different roles; Honda Ichijirō, head of the publishing house Unkindō, came from a bookbinding family.x

The transition from all hand work to kikai zuri , or machine printing, didn’t start in earnest until the 1880s; books transitioned from monotypes to hybrids with woodblock, or collotype under-images with woodblock printing on top, to fully machine printed materials, perfect bound Western style. Traditional binding is still practiced.
Here are some illustrations of different styles of book covers:


1929: TSUDA SEIFŪ, designer. (a page from) SŌTEI ZUAN-SHŪ Dai-Ishū.

- snip -
- source : bookbindersmuseum.org -


gajoosoo, gajoo jitate 画帖仕立て album binding

orijoo, orijō 折帖, folded binding,
accordion-style binding with thicker paper

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- quote -
Printing and Publishing
Pre-Modern Printing
- - - - - Tokugawa Period
..... Roughly 300 titles were produced in the 1590s-1630s using moveable type, .....
- snip -
The earliest publishing houses emerged in Kyoto around 1600; simply called hon'ya (bookstores) they engaged in both printing/publishing and retail, and numbered over a hundred by the 1630s.
- snip -
Over the course of the entire Edo period, an estimated 3,757 publishing/bookstore operations were established in Japan, 1,530 of which went out of business before the end of the period.
- - - - - Process
Publishers would often initiate projects, deciding on themes and hiring illustrators or print designers. The illustrators would then submit their designs to the publisher, who would then take over much of the remainder of the process.
- hangiya (板木屋, block-carver)
- copyist or hanshitagaki (版下書)
- nishiki-e and surimono
- the verb 上梓 (jôshi), meaning "to print" or "to publish."
- woodblocks, known as zôhan (蔵版)
- - - - - Paper
- hemp (mashi 麻紙) - kôzo (楮) - Bamboo paper (tôshi 唐紙 or gasenshi 画箋紙)
- - - - - Pigments
- hide-glue called nikawa
Sumi - the same black ink used for painting and calligraphy was used for printing blacks and greys.
White pigments made from seashell (gofun) or lead oxide (enpaku)
Dayflower blue (tsuyukusa) - a light blue hue which reacts easily to moisture, turning yellow.
Prussian blue - the first chemical/artificial pigment developed in the world (i.e. deriving directly from neither vegetable or mineral sources); first used in Japan in 1829; a deep, rich blue that does not fade or discolor.
Beni (safflower red), used to produce various shades of red, pink, orange, and yellow.
Purples obtained by mixing dayflower blue with safflower red, or by other means.

- reference source : wiki.samurai-archives.com/index -
(very extensive reference !)

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The World of the Japanese Illustrated Book
The Pulverer Collection, acquired in its entirety by the Freer Gallery of Art in 2007, includes numerous rare and pristine examples of Japanese illustrated books produced in the Edo period and beyond.
..... This online catalogue offers three ways of searching, and provides a set of annotation and comparison tools to use while researching the collection.
- source : pulverer.si.edu -


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暖房や糊の香甘き製本場
danboo ya nori no ka amaki seihonba

heating -
the sweet smell of glue
at the bookbindery


高井北杜 Takai Hokuto

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樹木形ランプや春の製本所
jumokugata ranpu ya haru no seihonjo

this lamp
like a tree - spring
at the bookbindery


. Miyasaka Shizuo 宮坂静生 .



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. shuppansha 出版社 publishing company, book publisher .
ABC - Introduction


. kashihonya, kashihon'ya 貸本屋 booklender, booklender
furuhonya, furu-honya 古本屋 selling old books .


. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


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11/01/2015

shitateya tailor

[ . BACK to DARUMA MUSEUM TOP . ]
. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .
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shitateya 仕立屋 / 仕立て屋 tailor, seamstress

Since many men where living alone in Edo, they had their robes made by tailors, who were also mostly men. Tailors started working after receiving an order from a client. First they had to get the cloth.

The womenfolk had to make the robes for the whole family themselves, working at home in the evening.
Some women worked as seamstress for the rich ladies.

Samurai families employed omonoshi 御物師 for their special robes.
Temples often called the tailor shinmyoo 針妙 Shinmyo.
The character 妙 is a combination of 少女 young woman in the secret language of priests, who were not allowed to have women in the monasteries.

gofukuya 呉服屋 draper's stores (Kimono shops) which sold the material to make new robes also offered a service to sew them.


source : cleanup.jp/life/edo

futomonodana 太物(ふともの)店 sold "thick robes" made from cotton 木綿, in contrast to the Gofukuya, who often sold silk material 絹.
kiwataya 木綿店 cotton cloth dealers

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gofukuchoo 呉服町 Gofukucho, district of the Kimono shops
It was the estate of the dealer Gotoo Nuinosuke 後藤縫之助 / 後藤縫殿助 Goto Nuinosuke, who was allowed to supply the Edo castle, especially all the ladies living there, with new robes.
His nickname was 呉服後藤 Gofuku Goto, because there was another person doing tatoos, 彫物後藤 Horimono Goto, living in the Ginza, 金座後藤庄三郎.
There were also stores of Sake wholesalers in the district.


The bridge over the Sotobori canal, Gofukubashi 呉服橋.


歌川芳藤 Utagawa Yoshifuji (1828 - 1887)

Another bridge nearby was 一石橋 Ichigokubashi / Ikkokubashi.
歌川国直 Utagawa Kuninao (1793 - 1854)



Yatsumibashi 八ツ見橋 Yatsumi bridge
歌川広重 Utagawa Hiroshige


- - - - - Then and now in 1916 - - - - -



吉良上野介 Kira Kozukenosuke originally lived near Gofukubashi near Edo castle.

- quote -
Site of the North Magistrate's Office
The office of the North Magistrate was located inside the Gofukubashi Gate from 1806 to the end of the Edo period (1867).
This is near what is now the Nihonbashi Exit of Tokyo Station, southwest of the Gofukubashi crossing.
- source : syougai.metro.tokyo.jp/bunkazai -



Gofukubashi Mitsuke Mon 呉服橋見附門 Gofukubashi Mitsuke Gate

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furugiya 古着屋 dealers in old robes would wash and clean them and sew them together for new merchandise. This was a full-blown recycle business in Edo. Nothing was wasted.
shitate-naoshi 仕立て直し re-making robes was very important.

. furugi 古着 old robes - Introduction .



kogire-kake 古裂れ掛け contraption to hang pieces of washed old cloth.

kogire 古裂れ old pieces of cloth, size did not matter, small pieces were also available.
kamawanu -構わぬ never mind (the size), became kamawanu 鎌わぬ.
kogireya 古裂れ屋 / 端切れ屋 dealer in old pieces of cloth, ready to be re-sewn.

tsugihagi, tsugi-hagi 継ぎ接ぎ patching and darning was also popular.

Old robes of grown-ups were also re-sewn for children. When they became worn, they could be made into diapers for the next baby. (Old diapers became cleaning cloths in the kitchen and after that could be used to start a fire - the final end of a piece of cloth. The ashes from the kitchen fire were then used as fertilizer in the fields.
Recycle and re-use were the norm in Edo.


Some robes were made entirely new, others were only repaired or re-done.
Special robes and Happi coats had to be made for festivals.

In the pleasure quarters, mitsubuton 三つ布団 special three-layered Futon sitting cushions for the honorable visitors were also made by the Shitateya. Since these cushions were rather large and his working room usually quite small, he had to be skilfull to do the job properly. But it payed well of course.

Townspeople who could not afford to make new robes for the New Year would at least make some new ones for the Hanami Cherry blossom viewing party.
The bi-annual "changing of the robes" from summer to winter wear was also a chance to make some new ones. Others would just sew another layer to the summer robes and take it off in spring.

. Kimono 着物  traditional Japanese robes .

. hari 針 sewing needles and rituals .

Needlework was done in the seiza 正座 kneeling position, with a pin and needle cushion, hariyama 針山 "needle mountain" (harisashi 針刺し) nearby.



While the hands were busy working, the knees (and feet and toes, if the tailor sat cross-legged) could be used to hold the cloth. Most parts were simply sewed together in straight lines for a Japanese robe.




Yukawa Shoodoo 湯川松堂 Yukawa Shodo (1868 - 1955)

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- quote -
Traditional Japanese Room, Tailor Workshop

This is a tailor’s workshop from the beginning of the Taisho Period (1912–1926).



On the left we can see the shelves with materials and a very old sewing machine. To the right, there is a living room with a still unfinished kimono.
At the time, the workshop was also the master's house, where he lived together with his apprentices, working and teaching them the craftsmanship.
- source : muza-chan.net -


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- quote -
My job is sewing kimono.

Tailoring the kimono is called 'wasai'  和裁 Japanese dressmaking.



An excellent kimono can't be sewn by sewing machine , it must all be hand-sewn . If one wants to put on a kimono for a long time , it is better for the kimono not to be made on a sewing machine . Kimono is made of a flat pattern clothing-construction . If the thresd is pulled on the kimono , it returns to it's former square cloth shape . 'Wasai' sews straight except for the neck line of kimono and the collar of the coat for kimono. Paper patterns are not used for sewing kimono except for the collar of the coat for kimono. Kimono can be tailored more freely than dresses . If the kimono is of good quality and is treated with care, it may be able to be worn over three generations .
- source : kimono-akinai.com -


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Japanese Bookbinding - Dana Gee
- snip -
The word shitateya was generally used for a person who finished off sewing jobs and the word shitate was sometimes used for the final stages of production of books including covers and sewing.
. seihonshi 製本師 bookbinder - Buchbinder .




Edo Craftsmen: Master Artisans of Old Tokyo
Thomas F. Judge (Author), Tomita Hiroyuki (Photographer)
- at amazon and google books


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- - - - - H A I K U and S E N R Y U - - - - -

仕立屋と宮師の裏の小夜時雨
shitateya to miyashi no ura no sayo shigure

night drizzle
at the back of the shrine carpenter (home)
and the tailor (home)


攝津幸彦 Settsu Yukihiko (1947 - 1996)

. WKD : sayo shigure 小夜時雨 night drizzle .
- - kigo for early Winter - -

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針妙をお針と云いて叱られる
shinmyoo o o-hari to itte shikarareru

to scold a tailor
at the temple he is called
"Mister Needle"


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クロッカス老仕立屋の鼻めがね
高砂子三知代

仕立屋と針千本の呑みくらべ
仁平勝

仕立屋の針子に届く千歳飴
西村三穂子

心ひかるる仕立屋の冬灯
西村和子

梅雨に入る仕立屋の灯は低きまま
香西照雄

立版古仕立屋銀次孤独なり
久米三汀

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. shokunin 職人 craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. - Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


[ . BACK to DARUMA MUSEUM TOP . ]
[ . BACK to WORLDKIGO . TOP . ]- - - - - #shitateya #taylorinedo - - - -
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