Showing posts with label - - - Places and power spots. Show all posts
Showing posts with label - - - Places and power spots. Show all posts

10/26/2015

Tsukuda Shima Island

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
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Tsukudajima 佃島 / 佃嶌 The Island Tsukuda   
Chuo Ward, Tokyo 中央区東京

佃 refers to a cultivated rice field, but the area is better known for its special food preparation

. tsukudani つくだに (佃煮) simmering in sweetened soy sauce .
It has been used since olden times as a kind of food preserve. It started with the fishermen from Tsukuda island, who prepared the leftovers of fish in this way. They came originally from Settsu in the Osaka area and Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu settled them at Tsukuda island.
The village head of Tsukuda village 佃村 in Settsu was 森孫右衛門 Mori Magoemon, who came with 32 of his fellow fishermen to Edo. The fishermen had helped Ieyasu make escape from the Osaka region after Oda Nobunaga killed himself in the Honnō-Jji incident.
Tsukudani 佃煮 soon became a speciality of Edo and Tokyo.


Buyoo Tsukudajima 武陽佃嶌 Tsukuda Island in Musashi Province
葛飾北斎 Katsushika Hokusai



- More details are here :
- source : adachi-hanga.com/ukiyo-e -

Tsukuda-jima in Edo, in Musashi Province (Buyô Tsukuda-jima),
from the series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji (Fugaku sanjûrokkei)

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- quote
Tsukuda-Shima
The boat slides smoothly up onto the sand beach of a small but bustling island. Tsukuda island is a low, sandy islet at the mouth of the Sumida river, which runs through the heart of Edo. Apart from a few patches of trees and small vegetable gardens, the entire island is occupied by a thriving village of fishermen and boat pilots, who make their living from the commerce of Edo Bay.

This island is located in an ideal spot for people who make their living from the sea. It is located right at the mouth of the Sumida river -- the largest waterway in Edo. From here, small boats can easily make their way up the river and through the network of canals to most of the neighborhoods in downtown Edo. To the south, deep water channels extend out into Edo bay. The docks of Shiba and Tsukiji are nearby, so large boats can anchor near the island as they wait to be unloaded.

The volume of goods brought into Edo is so large that no single port could possibly handle it. Although the most important cargoes are unloaded at the docks of Shiba, Tsukiji, Minato and Shinagawa, a lot of ships unload their cargoes directly onto small barges and takase-bune as they lie at anchor here, in the lee of Tsukuda island. The smaller boats then carry the goods through Edo's network of canals and waterways to small, riverside wharves, known as kashi.

Because of its location, Tsukuda island is a convenient spot for barges and small boats to stop while waiting for the large ships to start unloading. The beaches are almost always crowded with small boats, and the few chaya (teahouses) on the island are filled with customers chatting, gossipping and sipping their tea as they wait.

In addition to these visitors, the island is home to a thriving village of fishermen. The residents of Tsukuda island came to Edo in the mid-1600s at the request of Shogun Ieyasu. Edo needed to increase the supply of fish to the city, because its population was growing too fast for the existing fishermen to keep up with demand. To convince people to leave their homes in western Japan and move to Edo, the Shogun offered them the special right to fish anywhere in Edo Bay that they want. Entire villages of fishermen accepted the offer, and moved to Edo, establishing large villages in the "Edo-mae" area, including one on Tsukuda island and one on the other side of the Sumida river, in Fukagawa.

Although these fishermen are not allowed to sell their products to the Shogun and his court, they do supply a large share of the fish bought by average citizens. Edo Bay is a rich source of all kinds of seafood, and the fishermen of Tsukuda island have developed many different methods of catching each type. Solitary fish, such as tai (red snapper) are usually caught with a regular fishing line. Other fish can be caught the same way, but it is usually more effective to use nets.


shirauo ami 白魚網 large net for whitebait (Salanx microdon)
This catch was done from November till March.

The fishermen have developed a wide variety of different nets to catch different types of fish. Triangular nets on the end of long forked poles are used to catch fish that live in the mud at the bottom o the bay, such as hirame (flatfish) or tako (octopus). Small fish that swim in schools, for example iwashi (sardines), can be caught by just one person using a throwing net. But in order to catch larger fish, like saba (mackerel) and katsuo (bonito), the fishermen have to use huge nets, and work together in a group. Sometimes they use nets that are so big, they have to work in large groups, to haul the nets back in to shore.

Most of the fish can be caught right here in Edo Bay, but some of the largest types, such as maguro (tuna), can only be caught out in the open sea. Once in a while, fishing fleets will leave the bay for several days at a time to chase the huge schools of tuna. They may even attempt to catch a whale. When they are successful, these ocean expeditions can be very profitable. A big load of tuna or whale meat will bring a great price in the fishmarkets of Nihonbashi. However, fishing boats are not as well built as cargo ships; storms can blow up at any time out in the open ocean, so long trips to sea can be very risky. Even here in the Bay, life for most fishermen is difficult and dangerous.

Although fishing is the traditional work of the people from Tsukuda island, many of them have now taken new professions. Because of all the ships that anchor in this area to unload their cargoes, there is always demand for experienced boat pilots, who can transport goods from the large, seagoing vessels to the canal-side markets in different parts of the city. Other people work in the city, transporting people from place to place by boat -- as a sort of a "water taxi driver".
- source : Edomatsu



佃沖 晴天の不二 Off Tsukuda - Mount Fuji in clear weather
歌川国芳 Utagawa Kuniyoshi (1797 - 1861)

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Tsukuda-jima Sumiyoshi no matsuri - Sumiyoshi Festival, Tsukuda Island
Utagawa Hiroshige

月影やここ住よしの佃島
tsukikage ya koko Sumiyoshi no Tsukudajima

this moonlight -
here at Sumiyoshi Shrine
at Tsukuda Island

Tr. Gabi Greve

. Takarai Kikaku 宝井其角 (1661 – 1707) / 榎本其角 Enomoto Kikaku .


Tsukuda, Sumiyoshi Shrine 住吉神社


Kawase Hasui 川瀬 巴水 (1883-1957)
- Honolulu Museum of Art -

- quote -
Tsukudajima
is on the opposite side of Nishinaka Dori from the Tsukishima Subway Station. Fishermen in Tsukuda Village, Settsu (the current name is Nishiyodogawa-ku, Osaka City) moved to Tsukudajima under orders from Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1644, and developed the area they had been moved to. As nothing remains the same for long in Tokyo, it has been developed rapidly over recent years but older houses that escaped both the 1923 quake and the infamous air raid remain standing, sandwiched in between enormous skyscrapers.
Shumiyoshi Shrine
is related to the Sumiyoshi Shrine in Osaka. When fishermen from Tsukuda Village in Osaka moved here, they divided the enshrined spirit and established this branch with the part transported to the Kanto region.
Local residents, fishermen and those who work on water often visit the shrine to pray for their safety when at sea.
- source : att-japan.net/en/city -


- reference : tsukuda sumiyoshi shrine -


. Sumiyoshi Jinja 住吉神社 Sumiyoshi Shrines of Japan .
Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine 住吉大社 Sumiyoshi Taisha in Osaka

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名月や佃を越せば寒うなる
山店 芭蕉庵小文庫

銀河立つ佃に晦き舟だまり
古舘曹人

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. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


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10/24/2015

Yushima district

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
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Yushima 湯島 Yushima district    
文京区 Bunkyo ward, 湯島 Yushima 1 - 3, 本郷 Hongo 2.
The Northern slope along the 神田川 Kandagawa river was called 湯島台 Yushimadai,
the Southern slope was 駿河台 Surugadai.



湯島天神社 / Hirohsige 広重

- quote -
Chiyoda-ku, Sotokanda / Bunkyo-ku, Yushima
After the founding of Edo, this area became a residential area for lower rank vassals of the Shogun, and before long the Yushima-Tenjin Shrine monzencho (a town built originally in front of a temple or shrine) developed.
Yushima-Tenjin Shrine was revered as a god of learning by people of every social station, and lotteries were held within the shrine grounds. From the Genroku Era (1688-1704), the shrine dedicated to Confucius was moved from Ueno-Shinobugaoka, and the Shohei-zaka School was established within the grounds, and became a Shogunate government authorized educational facility.
A Shogunate government riding ground (Sakuranobaba) was established to the west of the shrine, and was used as a forge for cannons at the end of the Tokugawa Shogunate government. During the Edo Period, the area surrounding Kanda Myojin Shrine was made part of Yushima.

- - - - - More ukiyo-e about Yushima
広重 / 湯しま天神坂上眺望 / 湯しま天神雪のあくる日 / 湯しま天満宮 / 湯しま天神
- reference source : national diet library : yushima -

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. Yushima Kannon 湯島観音 柳井堂 Yanagii-Do 心城院 Shinjo-In .

. Yushima Tenjin 湯島天神 / 天満宮 Yushima Tenmangu .
Tenman-Gu in Dazaifu 大宰府の天満宮 and 菅原道真 Sugawara Michizane

quote
Yushima Tenmangu is a Shinto shrine commonly called Yushima Tenjin. This shrine was originally established in 458 A.D. in order to worship Ame no Tajikarao no Mikoto, one of deities appears in the Japanese myths. Later, in February 1355, the spirit of Sugawara Michizane, a historical figure, was also enshrined to venerate his extraordinary virtue as a scholar.

In October 1478, Oota Dokan (1432-86), a war lord in Kanto region, made the shrine building anew. Since then, many scholars and men of letters including Hayashi Doshun and Arai Hakuseki Confucian scholars in Edo period, have worshiped this shrine.
Nowadays many students visit this shrine to express their reverence to the enshrined spirit as Kami of Learning. Especially in the season of school entrance examinations, young students visit to pray for the success of passing examinations, presenting votive tablets called Ema.

CLICK for more photos
ema 絵馬 votive tablet

The shrine is also famous for beautiful blossoms of Ume (Japanese apricot) in the precinct.
In February and March, "Ume Matsuri"(Ume festival) is held, and it attracts many visitors who enjoy the Ume blossoms.
- source : yushimatenjin.or.jp


. Ame no Tajikarao no Kami 天手力男神 / 天手力雄神 .


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- quote -
Yushima Temple Picture (Seidō no Ezu)
The picture shows Yushima Temple, which still exists in Yushima, Bunkyō Ward, Tokyo, looked upon its completion.
It was in 1690 (Genroku 3) that Tsunayoshi, the fifth Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate who was interested in learning, moved the Confucius Temple Kōshi-byō to Yushima.
Aiming to advance Confucianism, Tsunayoshi, the fifth Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, established a temple in Yushima and moved the Confucius temple and private school that had been located at the Hayashi's private residence in Ueno Shinobugaoka. This was the beginning of Yushima Temple. In 1797 (Kansei 9), Hayashi's private school was then founded as a school under the direct control of the Tokugawa Shogunate, "shōheizaka school" (also known as Shōheikō).
The school accepted not only Shogun retainers but also children from around the country who passed an entrance examination called "sodoku ginmi". From all over the country, young people who carried their clan's future with them gathered in Yushima.
Unfortunately, the "Kōshi-byō (Confucius temple)" illustrated in the picture was burnt down during the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 (Taishō 12). Today's temple was re-established in the 1930's (Shōwa).
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

- quote -
Seidō 聖堂(せいどう) Seido
This picture gives a full view of the Yushima Seidō with Kanda River in the foreground.
The private boarding-school of 林羅山 Hayashi Razan in 上野忍岡 Ueno-Shinobugaoka
was moved here in 1690 and named the Seidō.
It was set up as a school under the direct control of the Bakufu government in the Kansei era.
The 昌平坂学問所 Shōhei-zaka Gakumonjo, where students read kanbun (reading Chinese texts in Japanese)
for the purposes of proofreading, was located in the area where
"此辺学問所 (location of school)" is written."
A description in the picture reads
"The first school of its kind in Japan and a most glorious place of Tokyo."
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

- quote -
Yushima Tenmangū Shrine 湯しま天満宮
Yushima-Tenjin is the shrine that enshrines Sugawara Michizane
known as deity of scholarship.
Along with Kannō-ji Temple in Yanaka and Meguro Fudō, it was popular with the populace as one of the
'Edo-Santomi', three shrines that sold official shogunate tomikuji tickets (lottery in the Edo period).
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

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Yushima Seidō 湯島聖堂 Yushima Seido, literally "Hall of the Sage in Yushima"
located in the Yushima neighbourhood of Bunkyō, Tokyo, Japan, was established as a Confucian temple in the Genroku era of the Edo period (end of the 17th century).
The Yushima Seidō has its origins in a private Confucian temple, the Sensei-den (先聖殿), constructed in 1630 by the neo-Confucian scholar Hayashi Razan (1583–1657) in his grounds at Shinobi-ga-oka (now in Ueno Park). The fifth Tokugawa shogun, Tsunayoshi, moved the building to its present site in 1690, where it became the Taiseiden (大成殿) of Yushima Seidō. The Hayashi school of Confucianism moved at the same time.
- - - More in the WIKIPEDIA !

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source : ndl.go.jp/landmarks
本郷湯島絵図 Map of Hongo and Yushima

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- quote
Yushima - Education at Edo's First University
The Kanda River is a man-made waterway that splits the high land around Kanda in half. The steep-walled valley that carries this river (actually a canal) through Edo was dug in 1638, as part of the Kanda Josui (Kanda water supply) project that Tokugawa Iemitsu organised to supply water to the city. Before that, the whole area was one large plateau. Today, however, the river cuts through a deep valley in the neighborhood known as Ochanomizu, separating two hilly districts.
To the south is Surugadai, a residential area filled with the homes of lower-ranking samurai.
To the north is Yushima, which is the site of Edo's largest schools, and its only "university" -- the Shoheizaka gakumonsho.


お茶之水 / 御茶ノ水 Ochanomizu - 広重 Hiroshige

The Yushima area has been a center of culture and learning since Edo was built. In addition to all the schools in the area, which were constructed more recently, this district is also home to several influential shrines that were built even before Tokugawa Ieyasu moved to Edo in 1592. One of them -- Yushima Jinja -- has long been associated with knowledge and learning. Yushima Jinja sits on the top of Yushima hill, which is one of the highest points in the city. This shrine has been one of the prominent buildings in the area since the late Muromachi era.

From the top of the hill, there is a fine view out over the housetops of Kanda and Nihonbashi, and the blue waters of Edo Bay sparkle in the distance. As the city of Edo grew, many popular teahouses and restaurants grew up around the shrine. Customers liked to gather for long conversations at the teahouses, to enjoy the fine view of the city. In time, these teahouses became popular meeting places for teachers, students, academics and artists. They would hold meetings where they would eat, study, discuss important issues, play shogi (Japanese chess) and enjoy the wonderful view.

However, our destination today is not Yushima, which is several minutes walk from the Kanda River, but a smaller hill much closer to the river, known as Shoheizaka. This hill is named after the area where Confucius was born, and it gets its name because it is the main center of Confucian learning and education in Edo. The hill is covered by a cluster of large buildings that house Edo's main gakumonsho (school district). At the center of the district is the official government daigaku (university) established by the first shogun and run by the Hayashi family, who are the hereditary leaders of this university.

Shortly after Tokugawa Ieyasu became shogun, in 1603, he convinced a well-known Confucian scholar from Kyoto, named Hayashi Rinzan (Hayashi Razan), to move to Edo and become one of his main advisors. He needed a very intelligent individual who knew a great deal about government and social structure, and Rinzan was just the man. He helped Ieyasu design the structure for his bakufu government, and develop a set of laws to govern the country. Rinzan built his home in the area near Yushima shrine, and when he was not advising the shogun he gave lectures and tutored the children of leading daimyo and other top government officials.

Many years passed and Rinzan was no longer as busy helping the shogun plan government policy. However, demand for his tutoring continued to increase, so at last he decided to ask the shogun if he could set up his own private school, so he could offer more formal classes. When Ieyasu heard of this plan, he immediately commissioned Rinzan to set up an official government university, to serve all of the samurai families in Edo. He made Hayashi Rinzan the daigaku-no-kashira (head of the university) and decreed that Rinzan's descendants would always inherit this position.



Education is considered very important in Japan. Even farmers in rural areas send their children to the local Buddhist temples to study, or have tutors visit. In the urban areas, well over 90% of the population can read and write. The Buddhist temples across the country play an important role in education. Most Buddhist scriptures are written in Chinese, so in order to understand them, Buddhist monks and priests must study both Japanese and Chinese for many years. Buddhist scholars often travel to China to study, and they bring back many Chinese documents -- not only religious texts, but also books on literature, history, philosophy and so on. For this reason, most Buddhist temples have become centers of knowledge and education. In fact, Hayashi Rinzan was a Buddhist monk before he came to Edo to become Tokugawa Ieyasu's advisor

Ieyasu ordered Hayashi Rinzan to establish a large school that would be open to all children of the samurai class. The working-class people continued to get their education from monks and lay-teachers at the local temples, but Rinzan's new school was to be the main center of learning for the upper classes. Rinzan built the first gakumonsho near his home. It consisted of separate classes for different studies, such as writing, literature, poetry, history, government, and so on. The school was a big success, and it continued to grow steadily.

After Rinzan died, the school was taken over by his son, Hayashi Gaho, who developed a set of courses in different subjects, and who continued to build the reputation of the school. He was succeeded by his son, Hayashi Hoko, who many consider the most influential of all the daigaku-no-kashira. The fifth shogun , Tsunayoshi, was a private student of Hoko, and his early years as a student had a great impression on him. Tsunayoshi was not very athletic, but he loved reading and education. After he became shogun , he tried to repay his old teacher by paying to expand the school that Hayashi Rinzan had founded. In 1691, the shogun set aside a large area of land in Yushima to build larger and more suitable buildings where students could come to study. The area was named Shoheizaka (Shohei hill ) after the place where Confucius was born.

Tsunayoshi believed that education should be available to all people of Edo, so he decreed that the school should be open not only to samurai, but also to lower-class people such as merchants, artisans and farmers, as long as they could afford to pay the school fees. In practice, though, only a few rich merchants were able to send their children to this school. Still, the public lectures held each morning are often attended by commoners, and Yoshitsuna and later shoguns contributed funds to help expand the temple schools (tera-koya ), where the majority of lower-class people get their education.

Today, the gakumonsho is run by the great-grandson of Hayashi Rinzan. Although it has lost some of its influence, and it is no longer quite as open to students from the lower classes, it remains the most important school in Edo -- and probably in all of Japan. There are no grades in the gakumonsho; young and old students attend classes together, though in most of the classes they are separated according to ability. New students start out in courses that teach reading and writing. Younger instructors work with the students one-on-one, teaching them to read and write. At first, the students simply recite the pronunciation of characters and practice writing them. Depending on how quickly the student learns, this phase of study can take anywhere from a few months to two years. There are thousands of characters to learn, and the student must study very hard to learn them all.

After they have developed acceptable reading and writing skills, the students enter classes in reading, literature and mathematics. These classes usually have a few dozen students, and they take turns reading out loud from translations of some of the Chinese Classics, or from famous works of Japanese literature. This not only gives students a basic knowledge of the most important books, but it also helps them improve their reading and comprehension.

The higher-level classes are broken down by subject; for example, students may study history, government, poetry, literature or some other topic. In these classes, the teacher's role is mainly just a moderator. Students debate and discuss with one another the meaning and interpretation of various classic books. A passage will be selected and one student will give a speech explaining their intrepretation. Their classmates will listen, then debate the various interpretations with one another. The teacher may offer suggestions to get the discussion going, but will usually just listen as the students debate. Later, the teacher will give a lecture (often at one of the morning public lectures) and provide their own interpretation of the passage. This method helps the students improve their understanding as well as their debate and discussion skills.

The instruction at tera-koya (temple schools) is similar to that at the gakumonsho, but very few students pass beyond the first two stages, which teach reading, writing, literature and mathematics. Math skills are particularly important for merchant families, and nearly everyone learns how to use a soroban (abacus) in their first year at school. Although boys and girls are kept in separate classes at the tera-koya schools, girls receive nearly the same type of instruction as the boys. At some schools, girls make up nearly half of the total number of students.
This is much more than in rural areas, where girls tend to go to school for only a few years.
- source : Edomatsu


. Shooheizaka Gakumonjo 昌平坂学問所 Shoheizaka Gakumonjo .
and other gakumonjo 学問所 Academies of Higher Learning in the Edo period

. Hayashi Razan 林羅山 (1583-1657) . - Confucian Scholar

. Ochanomizu 御茶ノ水 / 御茶の水 / お茶之水 / 御茶ノ水 .

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- quote 聖橋 Hijiribashi -
A bridge connecting sanctuaries
Hijiri-bashi Bridge is a modern arch bridge on the Kanda River. The grand arch is a Tokyo landmark and is the model for the Otonashi-bashi Bridge in Takinogawa, Kita City.
The bridge may not be sacred, but it has got saintly connections as it connects two sanctuaries. In the north is The Mausoleum of Confucious at Yushima, a former training center for bureaucrats of the Tokugawa shogunate; and on the south is the Byzantine-style Holy Resurrection Cathedral — a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan.
- source : gotokyo.org/en ..

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. Japanese Legends - 伝説 民話 昔話 – ABC-List .


. Enmanji 湯島円満寺 temple Yushima Enman-Ji .
1 Chome-6-2 Yushima, Bunkyō
kimi 鬼魅 demon monsters / dakatsu (jakatsu) 蛇蝎 snakes and scorpions
On the 8th day of the 9th lunar month in 1820, there was a strong typhoon. A large tree fell down and two people died below it.
During such a strong wind, people think that demons, snakes and scorpions ride in the sky. Sometimes even if there is no wind, when they ride the sky things may fall down.


. neko 猫 / ねこ と伝説 Legends about cats, Katzen .
neko 猫 cat
At a 煎餅屋 Mochi rice cake store in front of Enman-Ji, a large cat came every night and ate many things. So the shop owner caught it, killed it and asked his wife to dispose of the dead body. After his wife came back, she changed in strange ways, scratched the face of her husband, made movements like a cat. The husband called the neighbours to help him catch and bind the woman. There she begun to cry ニャアニャアワウワウ nyanyaaaa like a cat. She put her head into the bowl of food and liked fish best - just like a cat!

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. Rinshōin 湯島麟祥院 Temple Yushima Rinsho-In .
4 Chome-1-8 Yushima, Bunkyo, Tokyo
麟祥 rinsho is an auspicious name according to Chinese Buddhism.
a Zen-temple near Yushima Tenmangu.

suzume ikusa 雀戦 fight of the sparrows
In 1832 onf the 6th to 10th day of the 8th lunar month, in the nearby forest of the forest, there lived more than 4000 sparrows.
They started to get in a fierce fight and even eat each other.

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猿飴の湯島の宮の七五三
saruame no Yushima no Miya no shichi go san

the Shichi-Go-San festival
at Yushima Shrine
with Monkey Sweets

Tr. Gabi Greve

. Mizuhara Shūōshi 水原秋櫻子 Mizuhara Suoshi (1892-1981) .

. shichi go san 七五三 "seven five three" ritual .
- - kigo for early winter - -

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. Kanda 神田 Kanda district  .

. Bunkyō 文京区 Bunkyo ward, "Literature Capital" .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. Japanese Legends - 伝説 民話 昔話 – ABC-List .


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Tsukiji district Kabuki tsuji

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
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Tsukiji 築地 and Kabuki    
and tsuiji 築地 fences


The name Tsukiji is mostly associated now with the fish market.
. Tsukiji Fish Market 築地市場 . - Chuo ward
and
Nihonbashi Uogashi 日本橋魚河岸 
Shrine Tsukiji Namiyoke Inari Jinja 波除稲荷神社 "protection from waves"
The fish market of Edo in Nihonbashi was moved to Tsukiji after the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923.
and recently
Toyosu Food Market 豊洲市場 “Toyosu Shin Shijo”
and its problems since Autumn of 2016.

Here we are concerned with another aspect of the district - Kabuki Theater 歌舞伎.



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- quote
Tsukiji - Visit to a Kabuki Theater
There are many different types of entertainment in Edo, appealing to people of all sorts of tastes and classes. In addition to the frequent festivals at local temples or shrines, those who enjoy sports can often take in a horse race or a sumo tournament. Those who enjoy more sedate forms of entertainment may go to a musical performance, or go to see the professional comedians at rakugo (comedy story) theaters. Wealthy samurai and even some merchants will often take in a performance of noh -- an ancient and "high-class" type of drama. However, for most of the people in Edo, the most popular form of evening entertainment is the popular theater -- kabuki drama.

The main kabuki theaters in Edo are located in the Tsukiji neighborhood. This form of drama is extremely popular with the lower classes, and wealthy merchants often contribute large amounts of money to help support companies of kabuki actors. Almost everyone in Edo knows the names of the most famous actors, and some famous artists have published books of pictures showing the top kabuki actors dressed in their gaudy and colorful costumes. In the early years of the Edo shogunate, kabuki drama was viewed as vulgar and a corrupting influence. For that reason, samurai were forbidden to attend. Although the rules are still officially in effect, nowadays kabuki has become popular with all classes, though high-ranking samurai will usually wear a disguise if they attend a public performance.

The top kabuki theaters are all located in an area near the Nishi Honganji temple.

- Utagawa Hiroshige - Nishi-Honganji
This temple is a branch of the Nishi Honganji temple in Kyoto, a very old and powerful temple, the headquarters of the Jodo ("pure land") sect of Buddhism. The temple is very important and powerful, with close connections to the family of the Emperor. Even this branch temple in Edo is a huge and imposing building. It is one of the few large temples left in the center of the city. The others all moved to the suburbs after the great Meireki Fire, in 1656. The main hall of the temple towers above the roofs of all the surrounding buildings, and it can be seen from far away. Boats sailing into Edo Bay even use it as a landmark to tell what direction to sail as they approach the city.

The neighborhood surrounding the temple is a crowded, bustling clutter of row houses, small shops, piers and warehouses. Tsukiji is home to most of the dockworkers and boat pilots who transport goods throughout the city. Apart from the Fukagawa neighborhood, on the opposite bank of the Sumida River, Tsukiji is the most "blue-collar" district in the city. Since this area is a center of the shomin (working-class people) in Edo, it is no surprise that it also is the headquarters of most kabuki groups.

Several different kabuki acting companies operate theaters in the Tsukiji area. Kabuki acting is a closed profession -- only members of certain families can become actors. Although there are several minor families, the four main family names in kabuki acting are Nakamura, Ichikawa, Ichimura and Onoe. All of the actors in kabuki dramas are men. The female parts in the dramas are played by actors called onnagata, who specialize in women's roles. The onnagata ("woman-style actor") spend their entire lives practicing to act and speak like women. Some of them even insist on wearing women's clothes when they are not on stage, so they will become used to behaving like a woman all the time. This training is very effective -- when you see them on stage, it is hard to tell that the onnagata are really men.

Originally, many -- if not most -- of the actors were women. In fact, the person who invented kabuki was a woman. Her name was Okuni, and she was originally a shrine attendant at the Izumo shrine. She did a lot of traditional noh acting, but she wanted to do something a bit more exciting and less formal. (although the high-class officials like noh, many people from the lower classes think it is incredibly boring!) She began acting in her own dramas at a makeshift stage in Kyoto, and the new style of acting became so popular that soon many kabuki companies had been formed. Unfortunately, the performances in Edo soon got to be very bawdy, and many people started going to the performances just to watch the beautiful women and their sexy costumes.

The Shogun decided that these performances were getting out of hand -- some of them had become almost like striptease shows -- so a law was passed making it illegal for women to act in kabuki dramas. In the long run, this was good for kabuki, because it forced people to concentrate on writing good dramas and acting, instead of just having plenty of beautiful women in revealing costumes. One of the most famous playwriters, named Chikamatsu Monzaemon, started to work at about this time, and he helped change kabuki completely. Monzaemon was one of the first professional playwrights in kabuki. Before the Shogun outlawed women actors, most plays had been written by the actors themselves. Monzaemon could be considered the "Shakespeare of Japan", because every playwright who came after him has been influenced by his work.



The kabuki theater is a fairly large building with elaborate decorations framing the entrance. In addition to elaborate carvings over the wooden doorway, there are also many brightly-colored posters of the top actors and "actresses" plastered around the entrance to the theater. Some of the younger kabuki actors are waiting at the entrance to welcome people to the theater and to sell tickets. The acting company is organized along a very strict hierarchy. Everyone in the acting troupe has a rank, and knows who is their superior and inferior. The top actors always get the lead roles in the plays, and they are allowed to order around the younger members of the company. Younger kabuki actors must spend many years doing all of the "dirty work", and studying from their superiors before they get a chance to act. If they are not very talented, they will probably spend most of their career chanting or playing a musical instrument in the "orchestra" which accompanies the performance. However, if they are good at acting, they may rise to play one of the secondary roles in a major production. Depending on the crowd's reaction, they might even get to be a leading actor or the lead onnagata one day.

The kabuki theaters all have a similar sort of layout -- on the first floor are cubicles with tatami mats, where the wealthier spectators sit -- sort of like "box seats". The stage is in the very front of the theater, but a long, narrow extension of the stage runs down one side of the hall to the center of the audience. This is called the hanamichi ("flower path"). When an actor is performing a very emotional scene, they will walk down the hanamichi, and deliver their lines from the very center of the audience. The people in the very best seats could literally reach out and touch the actor. This is often the high point of the drama, and the impact on the audience is tremendous.

On the opposite side of the stage from the hanamichi is a tall screen, and behind the screen sits the "orchestra" which accompanies the play. Kabuki dramas are not really "musicals", since the actors do not sing. However, the orchestra plays background music to accompany most of the scenes, and from time to time one of the actors (especially one of the onnagata) may perform a short dance.

On three sides of the theater are balconies where poorer people can get inexpensive tickets. However, even many of the wealthier people think it is more fun to watch kabuki from the balcony. People are much rowdier and more relaxed. Also, many of the actors have their own "fan clubs" who sit in the balcony and shout out cheers of encouragement at certain points in the drama.

Kabuki dramas are always very colorful and dramatic. The actors have developed all sorts of "special effects" that make the drama even more interesting. For example, there are many trap doors in the stage and behind the scenery, so actors often appear on stage suddenly, as if from nowhere. Another technique that the actors use is to wear one costume underneath another. Stage hands are waiting behind the curtain to help them get one costume off quickly. With practice, they can change into a completely different costume in just three or four seconds . The crowd is amazed when an actor dressed as an old man walks off the stage in one direction and appears a split second later on the opposite side of the stage dressed as a young samurai. It almost seems like magic!

Perhaps the most famous kabuki drama is the "Chushingura". This play is adapted from the story of the 47 samurai , and the people of Edo love to watch it. However, the bakufu has rules against any play that depicts people or events that have occurred recently. They don't want kabuki to be used as a way of complaining about the Government or satirizing unpopular people. Therefore, the story in the Chishingura has been changed slightly, and the setting has been moved to Kamakura in the 1200s. Of course, everyone knows what the drama is really about, so it doesn't make any difference that the "names were changed to protect the innocent".
- source : Edomatsu

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. Kabuki Theater 歌舞伎 .
kumadori 隈取 painting of the face and more


. WKD : Edo Sanza 江戸三座
the three famous Kabuki theaters of Edo .


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Tsukiji no tatsujin 築地の達人 Great masters of Tsukiji
Three different root vegetables pickled in Soy sauce:
「江戸ごぼう」- 「江戸歌舞伎漬」 - 「おかか生姜」

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source : library.metro.tokyo.jp/portals

Tokyo Tsukiji hoteru kan 東京築地ホテル館 Tokyo Tsukiji Hotel Building
歌川芳虎 Utagawa Yoshitora, 1870
The first Western-style hotel in Tokyo.



Poster Print by Utagawa Hiroshige III (1843 - 1894)
source : amazon.com/ ...

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. Dolls with Kabuki Makeup .




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The word 築地 tsukiji (tsuiji) is used for other things.

. 築地 - tsuijibei 築地塀 Tsuiji wall, tile-roofed mud wall .


. Japanese Legends - 伝説 民話 昔話 – ABC-List .

奥州菊田郡泉村に判官屋敷という築地の跡がある。その中を耕作すると祟りがあるという。これは磐城判官だった正氏という人が住んでいたところだという。

築地にあった御救小屋が愛宕に移されたのは夜中に焼死者の幽霊が出るためだという。しかしその正体は人を驚かして物を盗ろうとした盗賊だった。

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京都府 Kyoto



Neko no magari 猫の曲り "The Cat Corner"
The corner of the South-East 築地塀(ついじべい) Tsuiji fence of temple To-Ji is called "Neko no Magari" and is feared as a place where ghosts and spooks reside. If people pass around this corner, they will experience misfortune. So even today a bridal procession will never pass along this corner.
This explanation goes back to the Heian period and the belief in the animal deities of the Four Directions. A statue of each one had been erected at the appropriate corner of the temple.
The statue of Byakko 白虎, the White Tiger in the West, had looked very much like a cat and people called it neko no magari-kado 猫の曲がり角 , the corner where the cat turns. But the statue had been removed at the beginning of the Meiji period.
Careful, maybe the protector deity of the West had been mis-placed in the South-East for some unknown reason and thus caused trouble ?!

There is another simpler explanation:
Since this corner is located in daily sunshine, many alley cats have come to live here.

. 東寺七不思議 Seven Wonders of Temple To-Ji .

. "Tozai Nanboku 東西南北" - the Four Directions .

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Tsukubai no Tsuji 蹲踞辻

One corner of the fence around the 京都御所 Kyoto Gosho Imperial palace is called Tsubaki no Tsuji.
Is people pass here late at night, they often suddenly get lost and loose their way.

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長野県 Nagano 小県郡 Chiisagata district 武石村 Takeshi

お仙ヶ淵 Osengafuchi - 大蛇 Huge Serpent
Once upon a long time,
three siblings suddenly came along and took up residence in the village. The oldest was sister お仙 O-Sen, next was brother 庄兵衛 Shohei and the youngest was 金次郎 Kinjiro. But shortly after they came, things in the village went awfully wrong. Almost every night some cattle was stolen. And often some large scales from 大蛇 a huge snake were left behind. The villagers soon realized that the three siblings were in fact large serpents and tried to get rid of them. But they were much afraid of a curse of the serpent, if they would harm the animals.
So they decided to declare them as deities and hold rituals for them.
O-Sen was worshipped at お仙ヶ淵 O-Sen-ga-fuchi, Shohei at 築地原の菖蒲池 the pond Shobu-Ike at Tsukijihara and Kinjiro at the pond 金次郎池 Kinjiro-Ike.
After that, the stealing and killing of their cattle stopped in the village.


お仙ヶ淵 Osengafuchi

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- reference : Nichibun Yokai Database -

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. Chūō ku, Chuuoo Ku 中央区 Chuo Ward "Central Ward" .

. Japanese Architecture - Interior Design - The Japanese Home .

. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


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10/22/2015

Tamagawa Josui district

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .
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Tamagawa Joosui 多摩川上水 Tamagawa Josui Kanal   

idohori shi 井戸堀師 digging a well
or making a new well


To provide clean water for the people of Edo was quite a job.
The wells were not dug in the ground but water from a river or public waterway (for example Tamagawa Josui 玉川上水) was let through wooden pipes (kidoi 木樋) to a huge well tank under ground, where the people could take it out for their daily use.
Drinking water was stored in each home for cooking.



Digging wells in the low-lying parts of Edo would only yield salty water from the sea.
In these parts water was transported by
mizubune 水舟 "water boats".
mizuya 水屋 water salesmen
carried the water from the boats to the customers.
The whole system was supervised by the
mizubugyoo, mizu bugyō 水奉行 waterworks administrator


. Drinking water : cleaning wells and waterways .


歌川広重 Utagawa Hiroshige

. - The Waterways in Edo - .
Tonegawa 利根川 (Tone River) // Arakawa 荒川 // Tamagawa 多摩川 / 玉川 (Tama River) // Sagamigawa 相模川 (Sagami River)

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- quote -
Mogusa-mura Shōren Zenji 百草村松連禅寺
Shoren-ji was first built during the Tempyō era (729 to 749), and was abandoned in the Kamakura period.
During the Kyōhō era (1716 to 1735), this temple was rebuilt by 大久保家 the Ōkubo Family, castellans of Odawara Castle,
to pay a tribute to the memory of 徳川信康Tokugawa Nobuyasu, the eldest son of Tokugawa Ieyasu.
百草園 Mogusa-en was a garden developed in this occasion.
In this garden, there was 松蓮庵 Shōren-an, a one-story house with a raftered roof, and
寿昌梅 Jushō-bai, an old plum tree with a large trunk, and both of them are known as symbols of Mogusa-en.
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

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- quote
Tamagawa Josui - Edo's Water Supply
One of the busiest men in Edo is the mizu-bugyo (the water "mayor") -- the man in charge of Edo's water supply. It is a huge job to keep the water system in Edo working properly. Since all the pipes are made of wood, they need to be replaced once in a while. Earthquakes are not uncommon in Edo, and even a small quake may cause pipes to crack or start to leak. In times of drought, the supply of water needs to be carefully controlled, to make sure that it is distributed fairly to all parts of the city. The job of managing the city's water system is handled by the mizu-bugyo and a staff of mizu-bannin (water technicians).

The mizu-bugyo is one of the few top officials in the bakufu who is appointed to his position, rather than inheriting it. He and his assistants, the mizu-bannin, are responsible for handling all of the repair work on the banks of the canals, as well as maintaining the distribution systems through the city.

Before Tokugawa Ieyasu moved to Edo in 1590, the town was still very small, and the people living in Edo got all the water they needed from the small streams flowing down from the hills of the Yama-no-te into Edo Bay. The main streams were the Koishikawa (Koishi River) in the north, and the Megurogawa (Meguro River) in the south. When the Tokugawa family moved to Edo, with all of his warriors and retainers, it quickly became clear that the traditional sources of water would not be enough to supply all the people in the growing town. Therefore, Ieyasu started the first of many water supply projects, or josui , to bring water to the city. ("jo-sui" literally means "lifting water" or "water inflow")

The first thing Ieyasu did was to build an extensive network of wells throughout the city, which were supplied with water from the main streams -- mainly the Koishi River. Wooden sluices and pipes were built to carry water underground from the river to each of the wells. This ensured that people living in every part of the city had access to fresh water. However, it did not increase the supply. After Ieyasu became Shogun, in 1603, Edo started to grow even more rapidly, and soon there was not enough water to supply all of the wells in the city.

The second major josui project that the Tokugawa shoguns carried out was the Kanda josui . To increase the volume of water supplied to the city wells, two large canals were built to redirect the flow of several smaller streams. Before, they used to flow into the Tama river, but once the canals were built the water flowed straight through the center of Edo. This new man-made "river" was named the Kanda-gawa (Kanda River) because it joined up with the Koishi river at a point near Kanda.

The main branch of the Kanda river starts at a small lake, which was named "Inokashira" (the head of the well), because it supplies all of the wells in Edo. This lake is about ten kilometers west of the city. A smaller branch starts in an area of marshes near Zenpukuji temple, so it was named the Zenpukuji river. The Kanda josui runs east through the hilly Yamanote area until it reaches Yotsuya. At Yotsuya, the water flow is divided. Part of it enters the main outer moat surrounding Edo Castle, and the rest of the water is directed into the main pipes that supply water to all of the city's wells.

An important part of the Kanda josui water project was to build the underground piping system that would carry water from the main intake at Yotsuya to each of the wells in the city. It took a huge effort to dig the trenches, build wooden pipes to carry the water to the wells, and then rebury all the pipes under the city streets. By the time this project was complete, there were about 67 kilometers of underground pipes supplying water to over 3600 wells in the city. At one point, one of the main water pipes crosses back over the Kanda River on top of a large bridge. This bridge is named Suido-bashi, or "Water-works Bridge".

The Kanda josui and a few smaller canal projects were able to provide enough water for the city for several decades. But Edo continued to grow. By the mid-1600s the population was already well over half a million people, and once again there were water shortages as the current supply system was insufficient to meet the needs of all the people. The third Shogun, Iemitsu, realized that water shortages could soon cripple the economy of Edo, so he ordered the most ambitious water supply project yet; a canal to carry water from the Tama river -- 50 kilometers west of the city -- to downtown Edo.

Work began on the Tamagawa josui in February 1653. A small dam was built on the river near the town of Hamura, and workmen began digging a canal across the hills to carry the water to Edo. At that time, there were only a few small villages located in the hilly, wooded region between the northern suburbs of Edo and the Tama river. Apart from one or two small streams, there were few good sources of water in the area, and certainly not enough to support rice farming.

It was rough work digging the huge canal -- in some places, the workers had to dig a channel as much as 18 meters deep -- through the heavily wooded hills. However, as the digging work proceded, and the canal reached further and further towards the city, people began to move into the cleared areas where the workers built their camps, and soon small towns began to spring up along the banks of the canal. The Shogun assigned such a large group of workmen to the Tamagawa josui project that they were able to complete the canal in just seven months. Once the water began flowing through the canal, many areas to the west of the city were transformed from woodlands into small farming towns, which grow vegetables to sell in the city.

The Tamagawa josui links up with the Kanda josui just to the west of the city, and the underground piping system was redesigned and extended to cover an even wider area of the city. Today, there are more than 150 kilometers of pipes in the Edo water systems, and the wells that are connected to this water system supply over 60% of the citizens with water for drinking, bathing and washing.

However, there are still some parts of the city where it is impossible to build wells and waterworks, particularly in the low-lying areas along the coast of Edo Bay, in Fukagawa and Kiba. Whenever you dig a well, it quickly fills up with salty water. People who live in these areas cannot get their drinking water from the wells, although they do use well water for bathing and washing. Drinking water must be carried into these areas of the city in special boats called mizu-bune (water boats).

A large pipe from the main water system empties into the Nihonbashi River at a point near Edo Castle. The mizu-bune load up with water at this pipe, and then travel to the areas of the city that have no wells. Water salesmen, or "mizu-ya", meet the boats at one of the piers in this area, and fill large buckets with water. Then they walk from door to door carrying their water buckets and sell drinking water to the people who live there. Although this system is somewhat inconvenient, the cost is very low.

The water-sellers store water in large casks and tanks in each neighborhood, so the people who live in these areas can always find water nearby when they run out. The system of mizu-bune and mizu-ya is managed by the government. This system allows thousands of people to live in an area that would otherwise be almost uninhabitable.
- source : Edomatsu

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Catching Sweetfish in Tama River 玉川猟鮎(たまがわあゆりょう)
Tama River was famous for its sweetfish.
It is written that from early summer to late autumn,
the Edo residents would come to Tama River
from miles around to catch sweetfish.
. source - Tokyo Metropolitan Library .


- Related to the 神田上水 Kanda Josui
. Suidō 水道 Suido district .
in Bunkyo and Shinjuku.

. Kugayama 久我山 Kugayama district - Suginami .
ホタル祭り Hotaru firefly festival along the waterway

. Chōfu Tamagawa 調布玉川 Chofu .

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- quote -
Actor Immitating Summer Peddling (Haiyū Mitate Natsu Shōnin)
A Kabuki actor portrays one of the summer's popular businesses. In the picture is written the phrase, "Let's cool off the gut of (a pun also meaning 'to frighten') the luke-warm actor. Selling utsumaki-taki icewater." The picture depicts a merchant selling icewater.
Kanda and Tamagawa waterworks were built to supply daily drinking water to people in Edo. But the water tasted bad and they bought water from water merchants called "Botefuri" (merchant carrying water on a pole and selling it).
In addition to such water merchants, "botefuri" selling ice water appeared in summer. An essay called "Morisada mankō", written in the end of the Edo period, introduced ice water merchants selling ice water with dumpling made from rice flour and items with white sugar in it, which was a unique business in Edo, not seen in the Kansai area.
On June 1, there was a ceremony in which the Kaga domain presented the ice stored at the ice room in Komagome to the Shōgun. The spare ice was distributed to passersby. Cold water and ice water to beat the heat were one of seasonal traditions in summer in Edo. An actor in the picture is Ichikawa Uzaemon XII. The house of Ichikawa Uzaemon was a famous family as the manager of the theater, "Ichimura-za".
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

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Inokashira 井の頭 "Head of the Well"
Mitaka 三鷹市井の頭
- quote -
Inokashira Park (井の頭恩賜公園 Inokashira Onshi Kōen) straddles Musashino and Mitaka in western Tokyo, Japan. Inokashira Pond (井の頭池) and the Kanda River water source (神田上水 Kanda jōsui), established during the Edo period, are the primary sources of the Kanda River.
The land was given to Tokyo in 1913. On May 1, 1918, it opened under the name Inokashira Onshi Kōen (井の頭恩賜公園), which can be translated as, "Inokashira Imperial Grant Park". Thus the park was considered a gift from the Emperor to the general public.
- - - More in the WIKIPEDIA !

. Benzaiten Shrine at Inokashira in Snow .
Print by Hiroshige

. Kawase Hasui 川瀬巴水 (1883 - 1957) .


Night view of Benten Shrine Snow at Inokashira Park


The Inokashira Benten Shrine in Snow (Shatô no yuki)

- quote -
Inokashira Pond Benzaiten Shrine
井頭池 弁才天社 Inokashira Ike no Benzaiten no Yashiro

Inokashira Pond is the water source of Kanda Jōsui,
the first canal system developed during Edo times.
Benzaiten refers to the story that, during the Tengyō era (938-946),
源経基 Minamoto no Tsunemoto (?-961) first installed a statue of the goddess Benzaiten at the shrine.
The statue had been made by Dengyō Daishi (the priest who founded Tendai Buddhism).
During Edo times, the shrine attracted the religious fervor of those
who were born and raised in the city.
Furthermore, in that the area surrounding the shrine was very fertile;
many trees were planted in order to cultivate the water source.
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

. Legends about Inokashira Benten 井の頭弁天 / 井ノ頭辨天池 .

川瀬巴水 Kawase Hasui

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玉川上水を世界遺産に
- source : ngo-npo.net/tamagawaj/pc -

- quote -
Tama River 多磨川
Tama River flows from a source in 笠取山 Mt. Kasatori in Kōfu City, Yamanashi Prefecture.
The upper reaches of the river is known as 丹波川 Taba River, the middle reaches as 多摩川 Tama River,
and the lower reaches as 六郷川 Rokugō River.
Tama River was so famous that it was composed in an old poem as one of 六玉川 the six Tama Rivers.
- source : Tokyo Metropolitan Library -

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- quote -
... in 1590, Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa created the Koishikawa canal which was sourced from the springwater in Inokashira, located higher in altitude than the central part of Edo. This had developed into the Kanda canal.

As Edo grew rapidly in scale, the increasing demand for water outstripped the capacity of the Kanda canal. Then, the Shogunate started to construct the Tamagawa canal, drawing water from the Tama River with rich water resource. The new 43 kilometers canal was dug only in seven months, and completed in 1653. Japan's constructing and engineering techniques were surprisingly sophisticated. The total length of the underground water pipes in Edo reached over 150 kilometers at the peak period, which made it one of the world's largest water network of the time in terms of service area and the number of beneficiaries.

The Tamagawa canal, with a stable supply of water throughout the year, contributed Edo to be a big city with a population of 1.2 million. More precisely, the reason why the canal could satisfy the water needs was the constant flow of water from the Tama River with fertile forests along with its upper reaches.
- source : JFS - Sustainability in EDO - Eisuke Ishikawa -

Inokashira 井の頭
The new waterway from the pond of Inokashira to Kanda was first supervised by
大久保藤五郎 主水 Okubo Togoro Monto. (? - 1617)
Togoro was a trusted retainer, who had been shot into the leg when protecting Tokugawa Ieyasu in battle.
Togoro had a good taste for food and water and was making sweets for Ieyasu, before being made the supervisor of the new waterway and well system in Edo.
Ieyasu gave him the name of Monto. 主水 ususlly reads "mondo", but Ieyasu changed it to make sure it refers to the importance of "clear water".
Monto's descendants proudly used this name as their nickname.



- reference : Okubo Togoro -

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- quote -
Waterways of Edo life
Only great engineering slaked the city's thirst

For centuries, the boastful citizens of Edo lorded it over country bumpkins by saying, “I’m an Edokko [native of Edo] ’cause I was cleaned with pipe water when I was born and I’ve grown up drinking pipe water ever since.”

It seems an odd thing to crow about given the cultural wealth of Edo, at the time the largest city in the world, but this pride in the city’s water system wasn’t misplaced. Cool, pure water carried by pipes to the city’s remotest corners was indeed a byword for the quality of life in Edo — as well as being the lifeblood of the city’s prosperity.
However,
coming up with an efficient and reliable water supply was no easy task. Much of Edo was built on land reclaimed from the shallow waters of Edo Bay, which — in the absence of the technology required to bore deep wells — only yielded brackish water. Meanwhile, Edo Castle and the samurai residences were mostly situated on uplands on the eastern edge of the Musashino Plateau. There, potable water was equally hard to come by because the friable top soil was not water-retentive. Indeed, the vast grasslands of Musashino had traditionally been ridiculed by Kyoto aristocrats, who lamented in poems that “Musashino has neither trees nor mountains behind which the moon can set.”
But when Ieyasu chose Edo
as the administrative center of his new fiefdom centered on the Kanto Plain, he was, of course, well aware of the water issue. In fact, on July 12, 1590, prior to his arrival at Edo on August 1, he dispatched his trusted retainer Okubo Togoro to investigate the local water supply.
Okubo dug a waterway in Edo
from Koishikawa (in present-day Bunkyo Ward) to satisfy the needs of the burgeoning new town growing up around Nihonbashi. By 1629, this rudimentary supply line had been expanded into the Kanda Canal, which channeled supplies from Inokashira Pond in present-day Mitaka into the Kanda River, then into a canal cut through the surrounding hillsides. After filling the ponds and streams in the elegant Korakuen Garden created by Lord Tokugawa of Mito, the canal water then entered the heart of the city along a wooden aqueduct across the Kanda River. Altogether, this system served the eastern sections of Edo, supplying about 25 percent of the total demand.
Being at first sparsely populated,
the city’s southwestern sections were sufficiently supplied with water from Tameike Pond. In the course of the city’s expansion, however, the pond kept shrinking until it was eventually incorporated into the outer moats of Edo Castle. It now survives only as the name of a subway station, Tameike-Sanno.
However,
as the population kept doubling and redoubling from about 200,000 in 1610 to more than 400,000 by 1640 and then to over a million — even possibly up to 1 1/2 million by the mid-18th century, had censuses included the daimyo households and samurai classes — the city was in need of a much larger water source. The answer was to be found in the Tama River, to the northwest of the city, where the senior shogunal official Lord Matsudaira Nobutsuna (1596-1662) commissioned two commoner brothers, Shoemon and Seiemon, to construct a system to carry the river’s water to Yotsuya, on the city’s northwestern perimeter.
The brothers accomplished the task
despite great hardships. In the new system, completed in 1653 and named the Tamagawa Canal, water was diverted from the river by a dam in the village of Hamura, from where it was channeled 43 km along an open canal to Yotsuya. From Yotsuya, water was guided into stone, wooden and bamboo pipes that crisscrossed the city underground. However, as the entire water flow depended on the force of gravity, the canal had to be precisely planned to slope only very gradually so that its Yotsuya outlet was high enough to allow water to flow out and down to every nook and cranny of the city.
This water not only quenched citizens’ thirst,
but also fed the trees and flowers that were planted all over, both in the samurai gardens and in poor commoners’ pots on sidewalks. Indeed, the abundance of trees and highly developed horticulture for which Edo was so admired by visiting Europeans in the 1850s and ’60s would have been notably absent without that water supply.
However,
the Tamagawa Canal also transformed Edo’s arid suburbs into fertile villages. A typical example is Nobidome in southern Saitama Prefecture. The notoriously dry grassland there (as nobi, meaning “wild fire,” implies) was part of the fiefdom of Lord Matsudaira, who was granted permission by the shogun to divert 30 percent of the canal’s water. Although the 25-km Nobidome Canal along which he channelled it took only 40 days to dig, it took three years to fill because the parched soil at first just soaked up water like a sponge.
When he died,
Lord Matsudaira was buried at Heirin-ji, the Matsudaira family temple that was moved to Nobidome. Nowadays, the large compound of the Zen temple is a verdant woodland designated as a natural monument — thanks to successful irrigation 350 years ago.
Though continually tapped in modern times,
the Tamagawa Canal finally went out of use in 1965 when it was replaced by the new Tone River system. Thereafter, the historic canal was abandoned by the authorities, except for its upper stretch in Hamura. Dried up and fast decaying, it then seemed fated to become yet another culvert in the Tokyo sprawl. Citizens, though, had not forgotten the fond memory of a rushing stream that once flowed fast past green banks. In 1986 local residents’ passionate, persistent calls for the preservation of Tamagawa Canal were finally answered when water was returned to the empty canal — albeit water recycled from a nearby treatment plant. With the return of the water, trees were resuscitated and birds and dragonflies returned to the 30-km stretch of the waterway that has evaded developers so far.
Finally, on May 16 this year,
the Tamagawa Canal won national designation as a historic site — a metropolitan designation it was accorded in 1999.
What was for so long essential to life in the city is now a welcome strip of green, a linear oasis in a concrete wasteland.
- source : Japan Times 2003 / Sumiko Enbutsu -

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- reference : Tamagawa Josui -

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月かげや夜も水売る日本橋
tsukikage ya yoru mo mizu uru Nihonbashi

moonlight . . .
even at night water is sold
at Nihonbashi bridge


. Kobayashi Issa 小林一茶 .

Selling drinking water was a normal job in Edo.
And on the bright moonlit nights life in Edo just went on and on ...
(remember, this is a time without electricity )

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Matsuo Basho was working for the Water Office of Edo.
His home in Fukagawa was suited to supervise the Kanda waterway 神田上水.

. 芭蕉庵 Basho-An in Fukagawa .

. Basho working for the waterworks department of the Edo .

. Musashi no Kuni 武蔵国 Musashi Province / 武州 Bushu .

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. Famous Places and Powerspots of Edo 江戸の名所 .

. Doing Business in Edo - 商売 - Introduction .

. shokunin 職人 craftsman, craftsmen, artisan, Handwerker .

. senryu, senryū 川柳 Senryu poems in Edo .

. densetsu 伝説 Japanese Legends - Introduction .


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